Restaurant Review: Hoppers, St Christopher’s Place

When Hoppers opened in 2015, the tiny Sri Lankan restaurant became an instant success. In the heart of Soho, the excitement behind the launch can be attributed to a number of factors; notably the welcome introduction to a South Asian cuisine previously quite unexplored in London. JKS Restaurants’ rich portfolio also helped, I’m sure, also including Gymkhana and Trishna. Then there’s the whole ‘no-reservation’ policy, allowing the restaurant to turn tables quickly and keep costs down, alas removing certainty of...

Restaurant Review: Ella Canta – Mexican fine dining in Mayfair

While Donald Trump continues on his personal mission to make America grate again, Britain has – if anything – completely fallen in love with all things Mexican. While various avenues of Latin American cuisine have been explored extensively in London, authentic Mexican food is finally having its moment. Critically lauded Santo Remedio has re-launched with a new home south of the river, while Mexican celebrity chef Martha Ortiz has opened Ella Canta – a fine dining Mexican restaurant within the...

Restaurant Review: Pied a Terre

Scientific research suggests sound (music, in particular) can enhance the ways in which we perceive flavour. High-frequency sounds can enhance sweetness in food, while lower ones can accentuate bitterness. As a result, Pied a Terre – one of London’s longest-running Michelin-starred restaurants – believes music played in restaurants could be manipulated to replace unnecessary ingredients (sugar, fats, etc.), or could essentially contribute to devastating your experience. Experimenting with this theory, the restaurant is currently collaborating with BBC Manchester DJ Karen...

Restaurant Review: XU

Tired of Anglicised Chinese and Japanese food, Taiwanese cuisine has become big business in London. Always on the hunt for something new and exciting, the city’s food fanatics became obsessed with BAO when it opened its first permanent site in Soho a couple of years ago – and rightly so. Since then, Shing Tat Chung, Wai Ting Chung and Erchen Chang have become the authority on Taiwanese food in London and steamed bao buns are available just about everywhere. Much...

Chamberlain’s of London finally announce weekend openings

One of the city’s best British restaurants, Chamberlain’s of London has been operating from a site in Leadenhall Market for the past 16 years. Still going strong, Chamberlain’s served fish and chips from their new standalone fish and chip shop (adjoined to the restaurant) for hundreds of service men and women in support of the Royal British Legion last week. Owned by fourth generation fishmongers Chamberlain and Thelwell – with the kitchen headed up by chef Andrew Jones – the...

Restaurant Review: The Shed

Tucked between Notting Hill Gate and Kensington Palace, The Shed offers a convincing retreat from the middle of the city. Still within zone one of the tube map (only just), The Shed is poised similarly to that of a countryside garden centre café – charmingly rustic, yet intent on serving rousing food: the best of British. Launched in 2012 by brothers Richard, Oliver and Gregory Gladwin, the restaurant is very much a family-run operation. Having previously worked in London and...

Restaurant Review: Gaucho, Tower Bridge

People often ask me for recommendations on where to get the best steak, and I’ll often reply with just three words: “your nearest butcher’s”. Because, let’s be honest, steak is generally best when it’s cooked (properly) at home. A completely subjective experience, everybody likes their steak to be cooked differently – even interpretations of ‘blue’, ‘rare’, ‘medium-rare’, ‘medium’ and ‘well-done’ can differ between restaurants. At home, though, you’re in complete control of the cooking – which isn’t too difficult, following...

Restaurant Review: The Jugged Hare

In February 1946, George Orwell wrote an essay, The Moon Under Water, in which he outlined his ideal London pub. Sadly, the eponymous pub was completely fictitious (contrary to the belief of the JD Wetherspoon chain) and the essay concluded, somewhat bleakly, with the fact that the perfect pub doesn’t really exist. At the time, The Jugged Hare wasn’t yet operating. On the site of an old brewery, just across the road from the Barbican Centre, The Jugged Hare is...

Restaurant Review: Courtesan, Brixton

I suspect it’s safe to say few, if any, Londoners consider themselves novices when it comes to dim sum. With an extensive number of Chinatown restaurants including it on the menu, we like to think there’s nothing that could possibly surprise us. Enter Courtesan. This restaurant, tea room, cocktail bar and events space in Brixton relaunched in September after an extensive refurbishment, promising not only a food menu designed and executed by an all-female chef team - under the leadership...

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