Restaurant Review: L’Ami Malo

The world over, French food is best known for its Michelin-star variety: the theatre of a carved duck, the delicacy of îles flottantes, the flames of a Crêpes Suzette. But in the northwest corner of France, nearer to its Celtic cousins than other parts of the country, such pomp doesn’t fly in Brittany. Here, the order of the day is on the fresh seafood that surrounds it and – because of the colder climes, hearty food doesn’t go astray either....

Restaurant Review: Titu

“#gyozadreams” reads the laser-cut decal emblazoned across the window of Titu. A sentiment so drenched with hubris, it’s almost arrogant; perhaps fittingly for this hive of Mayfair that’s still yet to be dragged into 2018. Although festooned with commendable independent restaurants, Shepherd Market and its surrounding warren of narrow streets remain adulterated with cigar smoke, juxtaposed to the gold-wrap supercar fumes of nearby Berkeley Street. Titu, though, is refreshingly modern. Officially London’s smallest restaurant, the 15-cover space opened just three...

Restaurant Review: Plate

In Shoreditch and its surrounding neighbourhoods, countless restaurants seem to come and go – occasionally without us even noticing. With so much competition, new local restaurant openings are arguably under more pressure than counterparts elsewhere in London. Here, a unique selling point is absolutely necessary. Enter Plate - a bakery, bar, catering company and restaurant by Chef Arnaud Stevens. Situated above M by Montcalm Hotel - opposite Moorfields Eye Hospital – the restaurant suggests their speciality lies with ‘great British...

London’s Best New Restaurant Openings – August 2018

With plenty of exciting restaurant launches constantly taking place across the Capital, we pick London’s best new restaurants opening over the coming month. The Belrose – Belsize Park A neighbourhood pub with a difference, The Belrose is situated between Belsize Park and Chalk Farm tube stations (naturally, we suggest alighting at Belsize Park and walking downhill). A convivial space with an adjoining garden, the pub will serve an all-day menu of rustic Italian-inspired dishes as well as boasting an on-site microbrewery....

Restaurant Review: Wellbourne Brasserie, White City

For those familiar with the White City of old, put everything you know to one side for a moment. With the development of Westfield, the re-imagining of the BBC building and the arrival of restaurants such as Homeslice and the brand new Japanese dining hall Ichiba: I’m not sure you’d even recognise the place. I certainly didn’t. Opened just four months ago, Wellbourne Brasserie is one of those new restaurants - just a few steps away from White City station,...

Review: The Ninth launches bar and terrace menu

The Ninth is a modern French restaurant, by description – but chef Jun Tanaka’s menu delves so much deeper. Having worked alongside chefs such as Michel Roux Jr, Eric Chavot and Phil Howard, British-Japanese chef Jun Tanaka opened his first solo restaurant in 2015 (the ninth restaurant project to have featured his involvement, hence the name). Operating amongst fierce competition on Charlotte Street, the restaurant was quickly awarded a Michelin star: becoming a rare model of genuinely enthusing restaurants so...

Restaurant review: Matt Healy x The Foundry, Leeds

"Anyone who knows anything about decent food in Leeds knows The Foundry", Yorkshire-born chef and MasterChef runner-up Matt Healy said shortly after unveiling his homecoming venture earlier this year. Under the stewardship of Phil Richardson and Shaun Davies the Holbeck restaurant has become the centrepiece of an urban regeneration project that has seen a once destitute part of the city become one of its most fashionable spots. It’s quite a mantle to inherit for the relative newcomer Healy, but it’s...

Front Line Chef tames his Temper

A moral quandary has emerged on the culinary front concerning the length of time writers should wait before undertaking reviews. Where critics argue that they should get in early to ensure punters are well informed from the off, chefs debate they should be allowed time to get their feet under the table, so to speak, in order for the restaurant to be judged fairly. It all started on the west coast of America. On the fourth evening of service, The Hollwood Reporter critic...

Restaurant Review: Kyseri

When Selin Kiazim and Laura Christie opened Oklava in 2015, I vividly remember finding unexpected pleasure in some of the menu’s humbler dishes. The pide was fine, as was the breast of lamb with yoghurt and pomegranate molasses; but neither were as unforgettably vivid as the modest pearl barley side dish. Cooked similarly to risotto, with sour cherries, the dish was finished with pul biber-infused butter, yoghurt, kale crisps and a blizzard of pecorino cheese. I’ve attempted to recreate the...

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