One of France’s best known chefs Cyril Lignac, whose empire includes 6 restaurants in France, London and Dubai, nine patisseries, and 40 cookbooks. Meaning his decision to move his only London restaurant, Bar Des Pres from Albermarle Street to South Audley Street must have required some difficult soul searching by him and his management team as reputation counts at his level of public exposure.
Moving any established restaurant to a new a location is a task fraught with risk. Taking a functioning and flourishing business with all its accoutrements, people, and hoping everything will work as well in the new location as it did in the old. There are examples where this has not worked out as hoped for, for instance when the talented and great human being Asma Khan moving the original and successful Darjeeling Express from Kingly Court to Garrick Street is one example which for whatever reason failed to ignite. That restaurant is now back in Kingly Court and doing great business though it’s about to relocate for a third time (I hope she keeps the chilli cheese toastie on the menu).
The important question is how did the Bar des Pres move work out? The answer is splendidly.
First impressions are the often the most important, how a room looks and how one is greeted too. Bar Des Pres scores highly on both counts as the new site with its large window and high ceilings creates a sense of space that was lacking before, and the interior design and lighting imbues it with an air of sophisticated luxury. Everywhere one looks something attractive or interesting catches the eye, it would be hard to find an offensive centimetre or sightline. The greeting is warm and professional from the moment of entry – you are immediately made to feel that you are welcome.
The general atmosphere is of relaxed elegance which matches the décor and suits the food. On our recent visit for dinner the restaurant was busy with a cheerful mix of Londoners, and overseas visitors. While being a sophisticated venue Bar Des Pres is still family friendly in the Parisian sense, there were several children having dinner with their parents (lucky kids – at their age I’d have been left at home with the babysitter, apple juice and some nuggets).
We opted to sit at the bar rather than a table which gave us a good view of the room and the sushi chefs in action, something I’d recommend if there are only two of you and you’re not proposing.
Bar Des Pres serves Japanese cuisine with a French perspective, the menu includes many of the choices you’d expect to see on a Japanese menu but then it surprises you with unexpected twists like the delicious crunchy crab and avocado galette with a hint of madras curry powder, which is one of those dishes where you’d like to order another immediately you’ve finished it.
The silky smooth vanilla mashed potatoes which we shared with the very good condiment loaded wagyu smash burger which provided another European touch, as did the seabass with pesto. The two of us did our best to try different menu items, all of which we loved, there were no missteps. Particular favourites were the previously mentioned avocado galette, and the melt-in your-mouth miso caramelised aubergine. The salads are worth a shout out too, the spinach salad, with a yuzu black truffle vinaigrette, and bonito which was as good a bowl of spinach leaves as you’ll ever have.
The vanilla mille-feuille for dessert was worth the extra calories, which it should be as Cyril Lignac co-founded La Patisserie Cyril Lignac, as was the excellent chardonnay which accompanied the meal.
The sushi and maki are all worth your attention too, as were the meats being grilled on the robata grill behind the counter- all of which looked tempting too.
The prices are central London standard, however most of the items on the menu are easily shared between two as we did or simply pop in sit at the bar and enjoy a California roll and a cocktail while surveying the room.
However, if you’re in the mood you could push the bateau out there’s a plenty of temptation available on the menu. There’s an excellent cocktail and wine list with a good range of wines by the glass, though for those of you with something to celebrate or are feeling indulgent there is a comprehensive constellation of fine wines by the bottle.
The Bar Des Pres concept is a formula which works brilliantly. This was my second visit and if anything the restaurant is better than ever.
The move to South Audley Street was a good decision and I’m looking forward to my next. Bravo Cyril!
THE INFORMATION
Address:
Bar Des Pres
41A South Audley Street,
Mayfair, London
W1K 2PS
Reservations: [email protected]
Telephone: +44 203 908 2000
Website: www.bardespres.com/london