Having closed Stem last year, after cutting ties with now closed Neo Bistro, Mark Jarvis, Chef Patron of Anglo Restaurant, has launched a new residency at TRADE – London’s first private members’ club for hospitality professionals.
Opened at the beginning of last year, TRADE occupies a basement site in Soho, launched by restaurateurs and Master Sommeliers, Xavier Rousset and Gearoid Devaney. With the new Anglo @ TRADE residency, a limited number of tables will be available for non-members, able to book and experience the five-course tasting menu during set times. Guests are also given the chance to access the bar’s Coravin cellar, a space for wine-lovers, stocking fine wines at democratic prices.
In addition to the a la carte menu (available for members only), a five-course tasting menu is served, priced at £55. In the kitchen, head chef Anthony Raffo (previously of Texture, Pied a Terre, Stocks Hotel and Auberge du Lac) serves a selection of dishes that have become highly popular at Anglo in Farringdon.
From the regularly-changing tasting menu, dishes may include the likes of a small bowl of fermented cauliflower soup vaunting a gentle nuance of cheese, joined by a lurid chive velouté which works in harmony with the fermented cauliflower. Buckwheat crackers are brittle and evocative of pork crackling without the guilt, served upright in a puree of lightly fermented cabbage and blackberry (a theme here, as amplified by the shelves lined with decorative jars filled with various experiments).
Elsewhere, a sliver of mackerel is blowtorched and served with three sauces: rich egg yolk whipped with salt and rapeseed oil; pungent black garlic, and carrot puree laced with a touch of pickling liquor which counteracts the fish and garlic’s potency. A tranche of venison is cooked to a perfect degree of magenta, simply accompanied by a smear of celeriac puree and a reduction of both red and white wine.
Desserts include an interesting, if not unnecessarily contemporary, parsnip parfait convoyed by powders of hay, miso and ‘smoke’; and an inspired cheese dish. A ripe Tunworth camembert is baked and joined by a juicy raisin puree and a blizzard of puffed rice that adds enough textural interplay to compensate for its insecticide appearance.
On the launch of the new Anglo @ TRADE residency, Mark Jarvis said: “I’m incredibly excited to be involved in this new venture, bringing Anglo to Soho. I’m looking forward to providing something new for TRADE’s members and Anglo fans who manage to snag one of the limited non-member tables.”
Trade Co-founder, Xavier Rousset added: “We can’t wait for our members to try Mark’s eclectic new menu, and are thrilled to be opening TRADE’s doors to a limited number of non-members for the first time, so as many people as possible can experience Mark’s incredible cooking.”
TRADE Soho can be found at 23 Frith Street, London, W1D 4RR. Further information on the Anglo @ TRADE residency, plus booking details, can be found here.