Kindred is an unexpected place. Hidden on the southwestern corner of the 1980s carbuncle that is the office block island atop Hammersmith Tube station is a beautiful and huge Georgian mansion. Yet a bit like in a children’s fantasy novel, you don’t really notice it until someone points out that it’s there.
Someone who did notice it however is former social worker Anna Anderson, who took it over with a vision to create a cultural space and community centre in the heart of Hammersmith. Originally opened as a private members club, it has like many of its peers evolved into an open house for West London, where you can turn up and for a modest fee use the facilities to work or just hang out. Alongside that they have kept to the vision of hosting a huge variety of cultural and other events and having a café open to all, Cellar at Kindred.
Having covered some of the special events that Kindred offers, including the Kindred Uncovered Residency which supports upcoming female artists, and wanting to meet someone for lunch who works near there, it seemed the perfect opportunity to try out Cellar at Kindred. My guest is a high-flying female Danish executive and scientist at the nearby London office of a huge international business. She is, I suspect, exactly the type of person Kindred seeks to attract.
I was running late (traffic – I’d forgotten what a pain it is getting through Brook Green) but when I arrived she was ensconced in a very pleasant corner banquette with a swirling cappuccino in front of her and looked quite happy with life. As indeed one should in such a nice space: a vaulted cellar reminiscent of an Oxbridge cellar bar but with nicer furniture and no table football. It was busy but not completely full and with a crowd noticeably cooler than those passing by. Looking out over the garden space, in which are set several more tables, the entrance to the shopping centre and tube station entrance is quite a contrast. Beauty and the Beast.
The menu looks great and thoughtfully put together. At the snack end of things are offerings such as a Cobble Lane charcuterie plate (£10), Muhammara & flat bread spiced dip made with red peppers, pul biber chilli & molasses (£6.50) and Cantabrian anchovies on toast (£7). Also pizzete, all at £9.50, which ranged from a cautious marinara to decidedly incautious but tempting Confit Jerusalem artichokes, pecorino mornay, wild mushrooms and salsa verde or Tomato, fennel & chilli sausage with gorgonzola and rocket.
Tempting as they are she opted for the pasta special, tagliatelle with duck ragu with portobello mushrooms, spring onions and burrata. This was unctuous and delicious with a properly deep ragu which did not overwhelm the fresh pasta. Delightful and a proper bargain at £13.50.
I opted for two of the small plates. First Palourde clams with cider, chorizo and spiced tomato sauce with charred ciabattini (£14.50), which balanced the cider and the spice such that I used every last bit of bread to scour the dish of its sauce. Then buttermilk fried chicken and curry leaf mayo and gherkins (£11). Juicy meat, crispy coating, smooth but spicy sauce. What’s not to like?
We could have delved further into this soft cushion of a menu – I’m certainly tempted to go back to try the slow-cooked Longhorn ox cheek in a red wine reduction with silver skin onions, calçot, champ potatoes, grilled tender stem broccoli, celeriac and cheddar dumplings, albeit I suspect the power bowls (Ancient grains with avocado, carrots, chilli, spring onions, bean sprouts, coriander and spicy sesame dressing!) get ordered more regularly.
My guest had to leave to attend a meeting which afforded an opportunity to try a delicious Tiramisu (why not?) before heading back to the slightly greyer world. It was a very pleasant lunch. It cost me a slither over £60 for the two of us including (soft) drinks. If I worked in Hammersmith I’d be here all the time.
Cellar at Kindred, Bradmore House, Queen Caroline Street, London W6 9BW – 020 3146 1370
Related post: Cellar at Kindred launches new evening events