Pavyllon is a dynamic space in the Four Seasons Hotel in London’s Park Lane where the talented French chef, Yannick Alléno, has created a vibrant dining experience with an interactive, neighbourhood feel of which the centrepiece is a long, spacious bar counter and open kitchen.
The latest addition to Payvllon is the Emily in Paris Afternoon Tea which gives a delightfully imaginative and contemporary twist to this otherwise quintessentially British pastime.
Afternoon tea is served in the modish, high-ceilinged lounge adjacent to the restaurant, where one instantly feels at ease. This is helped by light pouring in from high windows which look onto a fine Georgian building on the opposite side of the street which has a distinctive French Louis XV classical façade with Renaissance touches.
Now a casino for high rollers called Les Ambassadeurs, this site was a hunting lodge of Henry VIII in the sixteenth century and in the late nineteenth century was a residence of Leopold Rothschild of the eponymous banking family. More recently, this casino featured in A Hard Day’s Night by the Beatles and the Bond film Dr No. It is eye-catching.
Turning to afternoon tea itself, it is simply fantastic. The selection of chicken, cucumber, egg and smoked salmon sandwiches are cut with striking precision, delicious, filling and plentiful.
The “sweet preparations” are beautifully and colourfully presented, and range from crème brulée, tarte tatin (with compressed caramelised apple and vanilla cream) to mini chocolate coffee eclairs and tarte au citron (with sweet paste, lemon cedar ribbons and yuzu citrus cream).
The inevitable scones, of British origin, served with a compote of the day, orange marmalade and vanilla cream whipped to perfection are, of course, available. Chocolate in the shape of an undulating, and unmistakeably French, bright red beret completes the tableau.
Rest assured, no one overlooked tea which is available in every variety from fresh ginger and fresh mint, to English, Indian and Asian black teas and green, oolong and white teas. A glass of Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage will not go amiss for those who do not wish to wait for the evening to imbibe.
For the health conscious, Emily in Paris Afternoon Tea successfully distinguishes itself from other afternoon teas in London hotels and other establishments by avoiding a high sugar content, and I gather, has the best afternoon tea menu in London for those who are allergic to gluten.
Having caused great consternation amongst the Parisians, Emily will apparently soon exchange her glamorous life in Paris for life in Rome. One can only wonder what the Italians will make of Emily in Rome, and we should all keep an eye out for Emily in Rome Afternoon Tea at Pavyllon.
Emily in Paris Afternoon Royal Tea is available on Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 2.30pm to 4.30pm until 27 October 2024 and is priced at £85 per person (champagne is available at an additional cost from £24 per glass). Bookings may be made at pavyllonlondon.com.
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