Restaurant Review: Duddell’s

Although we’re well aware that China is larger than Europe, and the continued exploration of various regional dishes and ingredients is no bad thing – we often forget that Britain’s love of Chinese food is largely rooted in Cantonese cuisine. With a Michelin-starred restaurant in Hong Kong, Duddell’s opened in London last year, taking over the former St. Thomas’ Church near London Bridge station. Past the external structure, concealed with scaffolding, the restaurant is vast yet quite cosy. A pallet...

Restaurant Review: Coal Rooms

Within Gare de Lyon train station in Paris, Le Train Bleu epitomises a golden era of glamorous railway travel. Befitted with cavernous ceilings, grand frescoes, chandeliers and immaculately dressed waiters, the restaurant has been a fine dining institution since first opening in 1901. It’s also one of the most storied restaurants in Paris – arguably the fine dining capital of the world. Although a fast-paced traveller’s menu is available, the restaurant seems completely removed from the train station dining we’re...

Restaurant Review: The Garden Café

Of London’s many ills, our capital is plagued with an intolerable toll of bad museum and gallery cafés. Almost every gallery or museum in London is joined by a glorified tea room, many of which are also touted as restaurants in their own right, yet most are magnificently awful. Bucking the trend, however, The Garden Museum (Britain’s only museum dedicated to the art, history and design of gardens) reopened during the summer, as did the affixed Garden Café - open...

Restaurant Review: Monmouth Kitchen

Unlike so many fusty, windowless hotel dining rooms we’ve become so accustomed to, Radisson Blu Edwardian’s ‘Kitchen’ restaurants (other than the Michelin feted fine dining temples) are a rare breed that you might actually fancy visiting for dinner, even if you’re not conveniently staying upstairs. Part of the group's Covent Garden hotel, Monmouth Kitchen opened last year, following the success of May Fair Kitchen (sic), followed by Leicester Square Kitchen earlier this year. With its own separate entrance on Monmouth...

Restaurant Review: Serge et le Phoque

If 2016 was the year of single-item, no reservation restaurants; 2017 has been the year of the super hotel. First it was The Ned, Soho House’s landed cruise ship, taking over an old bank building in the city of London – featuring 252 bedrooms, nine restaurants and a rooftop bar, all of which have been filling our Instagram feeds since summer. Soon after, Robert Deniro and Nobu Matsuhisa brought one of their Nobu hotels to Shoreditch. Then The Mandrake Hotel opened...

Restaurant Review: Otto’s

“Are you with me, or are you with The Woolwich?” Otto Tepasse probes before insisting I become heavily involved in the ceremonial crushing of a duck carcass. The question has no real relevance, but it’s just one key example of the endearing eccentricity that environs dinner at Otto’s – a classic French restaurant named after its off-the-wall owner. Opened in 2011, between Chancery Lane tube and King’s Cross, the restaurant has such nostalgic charm, it seems as though it might...

The best London restaurant openings of 2017

2017 has been an outstanding year for London restaurant openings, with over 300 having launched since January. Some have been absolutely sensational, others considerably less brilliant. From nose-to-tail cooking to Mexican fine-dining; Michelin-approved international exports to home grown triumphs – we pick ten of the best restaurants to have opened in London this year. Frog by Adam Handling An extension of The Frog E1 (one of last year’s best restaurant openings), Frog by Adam Handling is a slightly more formal...

Restaurant Review: Southam Street

Pan-Asian cuisine has become so oversaturated in London, it’s often distinguish between the bad and the utterly atrocious. With the opening of so many restaurants serving a mix of Japanese, Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese, Taiwanese and Laotian food, a great deal have roots far more British than the menus may suggest. Of these, though, chef Chris Denney’s experimental creations are some of London’s few wholly enjoyable examples. When 108 Garage opened last year, the restaurant was quickly met with rapturous critical...

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