As a restaurant, upstairs at The French has had a mixed history. Even Margot and Fergus (the knight of St John) Henderson gave it their best though it never quite gained traction. But more recently Neil Borthwick, a man whose palette is widely fated, stepped in and it has become one of the hardest venues to get a reservation.
I can’t speak for the rest of the menu, which features red snapper in red wine sauce, generous pork chops, and several steak options, but the choice updates daily so it’s kind of irrelevant. But in essence it is one or two steps up from ‘bistro’ without becoming self-conscious or challenging – exactly what I yearn for.
The steak tartar is made with chopped capers and cornichons, a confit egg yolk and nothing frilly. Ne touchez pas! Trust in Chef’s seasoning as this is one of the best. And the goat’s cheese with confit garlic, smooth and balanced with zero huff from the slow-cooked garlic, is extremely moreish.
To the main event, I made a beeline for the confit of duck, served in the traditional way with lentils and cabbage. Hearty comfort on a plate, it’s a one-way ticket to Gascony.
My companion selected John Dory in a bouillabaisse sauce and said this was the best thing she had eaten all year.
We chose a Beaujolais, a 2024 Chiroubles ’La Scandaleuse’. Light, fruity and great as a lunchtime lubricant.
We weren’t up for a full dessert so shared the legendary half dozen madeleines, served hot from the oven with a lemon base and passion fruit dip. So naughty, comforting and delicious.
At just over £200 it wasn’t cheap but with so few covers and such craft you get what you pay for.
Charming staff, intimate dining room and flawless cuisine, I would suggest you bag yourselves a reservation and do it!
The French House is at 49 Dean St, London W1D 5BG – The French House
Opening hours: 7 day s a week, 12-11pm