It’s an odd sensation, walking down Northcote Road in Battersea. You’re technically in London, but it doesn’t quite feel like it. The pavement is laced with al fresco diners cradling flat whites, there are stalls offering sourdough that’s been legally obliged to call itself “artisan,” and the houses—all prim Victorian terraces—are so well-behaved they might as well come with a Labrador named Bastian. It’s not a village, of course. But like so many well to do London enclaves, it performs the idea of one with tremendous conviction.
And since the lockdowns of—yes, brace yourself—five years ago, that illusion has only deepened. The city centre’s gone half-silent on a Friday as commuters bow to the altar of remote work. Meanwhile, places like Battersea, Richmond, Islington and Clapham have come roaring back to weekday life. Long lunches on a Friday are no longer the preserve of freelancers and layabouts; they’re the new therapy session for anyone nursing the ghost of a Thursday-night Negroni/Martini.
Kibou, then, arrives with rather good timing. Part of a five-strong group of Japanese restaurants born just before the pandemic, it has weathered the storm, rebranded and refreshed itself, and now offers a menu so broad it could probably do the Tube announcements between Clapham South and King’s Cross if asked. And here on Northcote Road—where Kombucha walks hand in hand with Pilates—it’s found a ready audience.
The room is comfortable and alluring without being ‘curated’—all florals and Japanese murals and big comfy chairs designed to keep you sitting for a second bottle. And you should certainly do that.
We let the team lead the way, and what emerged was a whistle-stop tour of Japanese comfort-food served at a perfect pace.. First came Chicken Karaage, which is the sort of thing that, if I were allowed, I’d have served to me every time I opened a laptop. Crunchy, greaseless, faintly addictive, it’s a masterclass in the culinary power of deep-frying something with love.
Pork Gyoza followed—pan-fried on one side and yielding on the other. They were textbook in execution and gone in seconds. I could eat 50 of them, but decorum, apparently, still matters.
Then came a moment of revelation: the Sesame Prawn Toast Bao. Take a fried bao bun (already a guilty pleasure), fill it with minced prawn and top with sesame, and you’ve got the sort of dish that justifies cancelling plans so you can come back tomorrow and order two more. It’s clever, indulgent, and frankly I will be back time and time again for this dish.
Not everything left me wanting to eat enough of to feed a family of 6. The duck and chicken bao were fine, but the buns themselves tipped a little too far into stickiness, the sort that clings to your teeth which is a constant with Baos in the UK. Not a disaster, but not quite on par with the rest.
Then came the sushi, which Kibou does with great skill for a neighbourhood spot. Bluefin Tuna Chutoro—a phrase that immediately tells you someone here knows what they’re doing—was rich, chive-flecked, and indulgently fatty. It slid down with the grace of a well-poured martini. The Dragon Rolls, all salmon and avocado and fried coating with a little glint of salmon roe on top, were crowd-pleasers in the best possible sense.
To drink, they have Kirin on draught, which is a detail so correct it deserves a standing ovation. There’s also a thoughtful list of low-alcohol options, and a pretty decent cocktail menu which needs an evening for me to go through one by one, and lastly Akashi Tai sake for those wanting the full Japanese food and drink matching experience.
Service was spot on. Lulu, who looked after us, had that rare blend of warmth, timing, and menu knowledge that makes you feel like you’ve stumbled into your favourite local, even if it’s your first visit. She paced the meal with the confidence of someone who knows when to linger and when to get the hell out of the way. Pricing too is very keen, with plenty of small dishes from £8 to £10 and, for example, Chicken Teriyaki or Katsu for about £15. Sushi and sashimi is also well priced, and there are some generous albeit fully priced platters.
In summary: Kibou is a polished, reliable local with moments of brilliance and a menu that invites repeat visits. It understands exactly what its clientele wants: a long lunch that feels like a treat but won’t scare the bank manager or your stomach. If you’re local, you already know you should go. If you’re not, it’s worth the schlep. Just be sure to go on a Friday—when the city sleeps, but lunch in Battersea is very much awake.
Kibou Battesea 175 Northcote Rd, London SW11 6QF – Kibou
Opening hours: 12 noon to 11pm every day