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Restaurant review: The Parakeet,

Elegant small plates, smoky flavours, and pinot-fuelled joy. The Parakeet lives up to the hype

Peter Emrys-Roberts by Peter Emrys-Roberts
2025-07-28 15:09
in Food and Drink
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First of all, an aside, I must make a full and frank confession that I don’t like ‘shows’. Never have and thought I never would. Then a kind friend invited me to see Hamilton and I loved it, leaving the theatre moved, exhilarated and grinning from ear to ear. But there was something bewildering about the fact that I couldn’t remember a single tune.

Anyhow, moving on, at last I managed to get a reservation at The Parakeet. Located close to Kentish Town tube, it’s not so much a gastropub as a pub with an adjoining restaurant that provides 60 covers.

You pass through a noisy and fun local boozer before stepping through a doorway into a voluminous and high-ceilinged dining room. There’s an intelligent mix of tables and booths and the overall feeling is of warmth and history. To the rear is the cooking station, with its open fires that glow and crackle.

From start to finish the staff were extremely good. Relaxed, friendly and very well informed, taking you through the large selection of sharing plates that arrive on an as-ready basis. All cooked on an open flame, there’s a consistently smoky note to the menu.

Our table quickly filled up with sharing plates that were as elegant as they were delicious. Among others, we had Hoisin duck tartlets, potato bread and smoked butter, and my favourite, Venison merguez. A thin, garlicy sausage wound into a coil. We left comfortably replete, grinning having had a such great meal. Yet, short of referring to the scant notes I made during the dinner, I struggled to remember quite what we had eaten. This to me is the shortcoming of the ‘small plates movement’. Sometimes there’s a lot to be said for a straightforward menu that has a start, a middle and an end.

Thankfully, The Parakeet’s Sunday roast is just such (and of legend), so I very much look forward to returning to try this out. Though they recommend you go early if you fancy the lamb as it may sell out before you get there.

SUMMARY:

Notwithstanding my dislike for small plates, the acclaim afforded to the Parakeet by many a notable journalist is justly deserved and it is well worth a visit. All washed down by a bottle of Australian pinot noir, our dinner for four came to ~£250

The Parakeet i256 Kentish Town Rd, London NW5 2AA – The Parakeet

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Opening hours: Monday-Saturday 12-12; Sunday 12-10:30 (roasts served from 12-6pm)

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