My anticipation on entering Mazarine was driven by what you would expect on the Côte d’Azur, bright, colourful dishes, edible flowers etc. As it transpired, Mazarine is far more restrained, allowing flavour an dingredients to take centre stage, still elegant yet that bit more refined.
And to be fair, anticipation also centered on the chef here. Could this fill the hole in our hearts, or stomachs, previously occupied by the grande dame of grand dames? For at the helm is Michelin-starred Thierry Laborde, previously head chef at Le Gavroche, so let’s just say he knows his oignons. And the front of house crew are all clearly seasoned veterans, their warmth and professionalism shining through their smart uniforms.
The space designed by NY practice Bolt Builds is ultra-simple, warm and monochrome, with an undulating ceiling as though one were underwater. Upholstery is a mix of desaturated ice cream colours. Gentle washes of light punctuated by the sharpest of spotlights onto each table make everything sparkle and faces glow. And a splash of contrast is added by the clientele, dressed predominantly in black.
There is a short list of house cocktails, which are very special, though if you prefer a classic all is possible.
On a tequila tip just now, we tried a Pasteque (Olmeca Altos, watermelon, mango, chilli and coriander) and a Margarita St Martin (Olmeca Altos Reposado, pomello, Cointreau, and lime).
The former was fresh with a gentle warmth, the latter citrus and bright, so it was a straight tie.
An hors d’œuvre, the smoked eel croquette with Comté cheese, lovage and horseradish was small and fab, our bouches suitably amused.
By way of entrée I ordered the bluefin tuna tartare served with Grandjean olive oil. So vibrant, pink and perfect, it arrived looking just like chopped watermelon. Don’t expect fireworks, it’s extremely subtle with umami of olive oil.
My companion chose warmed mackerel fillet, sweet grapes, aromatic basil. Its dense meat, lightly warmed with a touch of smoke, combines with the woodiness of the pine nuts and acid-sweetness of the tiny grapes and salt ‘n’ vinegar of little capers. The skin of the fish is a bright as if it were freshly caught, and the dish wonderfully balanced.
Both our main courses were a triumph: slow-cooked cod with Basque pil-pil sauce was utter perfection. Gently heated in duck fat, the cod is served in an olive oil sauce of fine garlic slices and Padrón peppers. And the grilled turbot, Choron sauce and artichoke barigoule, arrived exactly as It should be, only just cooked in the middle, still translucent. It’s a large portion served with a side of whole artichokes.
We also enjoyed the sides of Savoy cabbage, caramelised and charred in a light sauce, and a plate of utterly perfect French fries.
Wine was a 2020 Domaine Julien Braud Muscadet from the Loire. Fresh and dry with notes of grapefruit, I’m a huge fan of this undervalued region.
Dessert, La Russe Biarritz, is a Basque classic that plays with textures of sponge, praline and mousseline, though in the absence of it hitting a nostalgic note personally, it was outshone by the soufflé chocolat noir made with XOCO dark chocolate, soufflé tart, and a scoop of “Landes pine-bud” ice cream. Crisp, nutty chocolate, gooey and rich, this is a standout pud.
This truly was an exceptional dining experience, and the joy in the room was palpable. It had been open but 9 days, yet the whole delivery was indulgent and fabulous. Mazarine is sure to become a much sought after reservation.
Mazarine is at 22 Hanover Square, London W1S 1JA – Mazarine
Opening hour: Tuesday-Saturday: 18:00 – 22:30 (Sunday & Monday closed)