Tucked away on a quiet Mayfair side street, El Pirata has long been one of London’s worst-kept secrets — a genuine slice of Spain that has resisted the tides of trend-chasing dining. With its rustic interiors, bustling energy, and walls lined with Spanish art, it feels more Madrid than Mayfair.
Having been around for more than 30 years, this staple of London’s tapas restaurants has stayed the course, and does everything well.
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Our meal began with calamari and mussels, two tapas staples that El Pirata executes with confident simplicity. The calamari arrived perfectly crisp, the batter light and golden, giving way to tender rings that tasted unmistakably fresh. The mussels, meanwhile, were plump and fragrant, bathed in a creamy Albariño & lemon grass sauce. Without even having to ask, bread was brought over to mop up the beautiful sauce. A wonderful bit of hospitality in a restaurant where you’re looked after brilliantly.
For the mains, we went classic. The Spanish omelette with potatoes and onion came with a warning — it’s runny. This was very true, with the centre spilling onto the plate the moment the tortilla was cut into, but this took nothing away from how good the thing tasted.
Marinated chicken skewers with chorizo brought a more robust note: the meat smoky and tender, lifted by the paprika-rich spice of the chorizo. It’s the kind of dish that instantly transports you to a tapas bar in Andalusia.
For the centrepiece of the meal, we went route one: a classic chicken paella. Enough for two, it hit all the right notes — saffron rice rich with depth, dotted with juicy chicken, each grain carrying the soul of the stock it had absorbed. After the small plates so far in the meal, this was a exactly what was needed – a comforting, vibrant dish to gorge on.
Throughout, a fantastic bottle of Rioja washed everything down, pairing beautifully with every dish.
Finally, it was a Spanish speciality, Torrija caramelizada con helado, the nation’s version of French toast. Served with ice cream, this was a cuboid of joy – fluffy brioche bread with all the caramel and cinnamon flavour you want.
In a part of London dominated by high-end modernism, El Pirata’s appeal lies in its refusal to change. The service is warm, the atmosphere convivial, and the food comfortingly traditional. It’s a restaurant that doesn’t chase trends — it celebrates heritage.
El Pirata can be found at 5-6 Down Street, Mayfair W1J 7AQ