Kitchen at Holmes has been on my brunch list ever since reading my friend Peter’s enthusiastic review of dinner there last year. It’s here if you’re out for the evening. But I’m here for brunch. Arriving on a warm Saturday morning, there was already a guitarist in the corner tuning up before service. As somebody broadly sympathetic to the terpsichorean muse, this was not unwelcome. Furthermore, I would say it is a good sign – this is a place that expects people to linger. Which means they’re confident in their offerings. Dining has such a large psychological element, that all begins with the space. Here they’ve gone for a modern Mediterranean look – light and airy browns and creams. Nothing too theme-y. Very elegant rather than sensational. Which is just right for brunch. Good stuff.
The menu is a list of the usual suspects for breaking ones fast. You don’t need me to tell you, that means variations on bread and egg. Which isn’t a complaint – this is exactly what I want for breakfast. But here and there, it looks like there might be some little touches of flair, and some fun combinations – let’s get stuck in.
We started with the zucchini fritti. These arrive as matchstick-thin shreds of courgette bound together with an admirably unapologetic quantity of batter. Nobody should order this under the illusion that the zucchini means they are making a healthy decision. The vegetable feels almost secondary — more structural component than nutritional centrepiece — but that is rather the joy of it. Crisp, salty and deeply snackable. Dipped into some lovely garlic mayo, we were off to a good start. But the zucchini was no preparation for the delights of what came next. When you go, and I urge you to, if you only have one thing, have the cuttlefish croquettes.
Little brown spheres of deep-fried breadcrumb (Ah! There’s the bread – it must be brunch.) giving way to a dramatic black interior, rich with cuttlefish ink but avoiding the aggressive “cephalopodiness” that can make squid-heavy dishes feel like a swim in a well-used harbour. There is plenty of fresh dill running through them and what tasted to me like cumin adding a gentle bass note underneath. A sharp, piquant dipping mayo cut through the richness beautifully.
Then came the roast beef croissant roll. I only really ordered it to see if croissant, beef and egg go together. It turns out they do. The croissant gives the beef a totally new dance partner. It’s nothing like a regular beef and bread sandwich – either hot steak or cold cuts. Croissants are much more pastry than bread. Actually, it tastes very much like Beef Wellington. But with croissants. (A beef Napoleon, if you like. Though my partner points out, it’s a bit early for 19th-century history jokes. And now I’m wondering if there’s ever a right time.).
Croissant and beef eaten at 10 in the morning with an egg is even better than it sounds. Although halfway through, I found myself wondering whether horseradish might improve things further. Then again, perhaps that would risk upsetting the balance. Although devilled eggs and horseradish coexist perfectly happily in the world. Maybe I’ll ask next time.
My pal tried the signature avocado smash and poached eggs. The quintessential, near-ubiquitous London brunch staple.
At first glance it appears familiar territory — creamy smashed avocado, good sourdough, properly poached eggs and chilli flakes — but what elevates it is the unexpectedly generous use of fresh lime juice. It cuts through the richness with real confidence and leaves a sunny good-morning on the tongue. Great stuff, though not as fun or surprising as the beef croissant. But you’d do well with either.
I should also mention the coffee, which was genuinely excellent. Strong and luxurious with a balanced bitter kick. It felt curated rather than an accompaniment.
Brunch in London can sometimes be aggressively performative or dutifully minimalist. Kitchen at Holmes manages to avoid both. Like the decor, it’s elegant and professional. There is enough flair to keep things interesting, but not so much that the dishes get lost in their own concepts. As it should be. It’s all based around simple bread and eggs after all.
Kitchen at Holmes can be found at 108 Baker Street, London W1U 6LJ – Kitchen at Holmes
Opening hours: Sunday & Monday 12:00 – 15:00, Tuesday – Saturday 12:00 – 21:15