By Jonathan Hatchman @JonHatchman
Situated within the heart of the Capital’s bustling theatre district, master chef Marcus Wareing’s latest venture is a far cry from his two Michelin Starred restaurant within Knightsbridge’s Belgravia Hotel. However, boasting an affordable menu, the restaurant does retain Wareing’s flair for modern British cuisine, fused with a delightful feast of comfort food that’s available within this casual dining atmosphere.
Intently missing the lunch rush, our meal commenced with a delicious pumpkin soup (£5), served gracefully with swirls of goats cheese, crispy sourdough croutons and a scattering of seeds, forming a crescendo of textures that inspire a sensual awakening, albeit slightly under-seasoned. Next comes the main course, (so enticing that both of our party members felt the need to order) a slice of Pork belly that’s accompanied by applesauce and nutmeg, as well as the surprise addition of a braised pig cheek. The rich, tender cheek is, undoubtedly, the star of the dish: reasonably priced at £10. Meanwhile, the additional sides consist of an implausible broccoli dish, demonstrating Tredwell’s profound ability to incorporate the concepts of fine dining and comfort food. Presenting a portion of the vegetable, chargrilled and laced with anchovies and an almond butter (£5), salty fries (£3), substituting the sweet potato alternative that was sadly amiss from today’s menu, and a portion of rich, creamy mashed potato (£3.50), served with a drizzle of olive oil and presented within a jam jar, adding to the quirky nostalgic feel that is offered up by the restaurant.
Also adding to the comfort food aesthetics are the restaurant’s desserts, featuring the “virtuous” chocolate brownie: a vegan treat that is devoid of dairy, gluten, eggs and unrefined sugar, yet still manages to taste fabulous, extraordinarily. Serving as just one of the allergen and vegetarian friendly recipes on offer, as made omnipresent within the menu’s almost scientific allergy key. Furthermore, the fig dessert that is joined by warm chocolate and corn flakes also provokes an element of blissful nostalgia. A concoction that, on paper, seems peculiar yet revokes sensory memories of childhood baking with the mere ingredients of breakfast cereals and melted chocolate. All washed down with a selection of cocktails from the extensive drinks menu, notably including a selection that ranges to the wintery sweetness of the “Penny Farthing”, (£7) featuring a mixture of goji berries, blackberry and sherry, through to the more potent mixes of Patron XO Coffee Tequila, Vermouth and chocolate for the “Cloak & Dagger” (£8), and “Sparkling Cyanide” (£7.50), comprised of Green Chartreuse, Maraschino, lime, and soda water.
Albeit having been greeted with mixed reviews and some less that promising press, since opening at the tail end of September, Tredwell’s manages to surpass all expectations, given the menu pricing that certainly refrains from reflecting Marcus Wareing’s Michelin star and celebrity chef status, as well as the sheer fact that none of the food served here would have been cooked by the man, himself.
Tredwell’s can be found at 4a Upper St Martin’s Ln, London WC2H 9NY