Much as I love burgers (and New York for that matter) it was with caution that I went to review Black Tap, the NYC franchise’s latest opening just off Piccadilly Circus. It’s just the propensity for America to slop sugary sauces on everything, over-salt their chips (e.g. Five Guys) and generally make dirty food downright filthy, which stops me in my tracks – my arteries feel carotid before I even start.
What transpired on this occasion, however, was that these are some of the cleanest gourmet burgers you’ll find in London. Unsurprisingly, the group head chef is a health freak, which was reflected in the meal as it unravelled.
The interior is slick, high contrast and monochrome, as though it were designed by David from Schitt’s Creek. And if musically hip hop is your genre, you will feel totally at home.
Drinkies came in the form of a glass of house red and a pint of Camden IPA, and their list is extensive, including cocktails and wine by the bottle. But the name Black Tap came from the shiny beer tap handles, as they are at their core a beer and burger joint.
For starters we tried Black Tap Hot Wings parried with a Caesar salad.
The wings are covered in a spicy dry rub and served with house buttermilk-dill. Yes, they’re hot, though no hiccups this time, and the sauce lends an unexpectedly sophisticated note. So much so that I saved it for the chips.
The salad is very lightly dressed romaine lettuce, croutons and grated Parmesan providing a crisp fresh counterpoint to dem dutty ribs.
The burgers, both served on a potato bun (I approve), arrive open with the lettuce tomato and dill pickle on the side so you can choose to build them in or eat separately. And if, like me, you are part slug ask for the chips without salt. They then arrive absolutely perfectly seasoned, and are an appetisingly modest portion as opposed to the food-challenge you might expect in NYC.
We tried:
The Wagyu Steakhouse Burger £26
This consists of a wagyu burger, pepper jack cheese, crispy onions, A1 sauce, and roasted garlic mayo. It was a bit overwhelmed by the crispy onions and garlic mayo. That said, the vinegary dip on the side was a good balance to the fatty patty.
The Black Truffle Burger £26
Wagyu burger, havarti cheese, rocket, truffle-yuzu vinaigrette, black garlic peppercorn aioli, shaved parmesan, and truffle oil. We also swapped out the chips for a house salad. The truffle was subtle and not over-bearing, the burger lightly pink in the middle. These are hearty patties. No smash here. Of the two the truffle burger was the star.
Again, the green salad was lightly dressed, this time more to the French, and delivered the freshness and a crunchy counterpoint to the buns of sin.
Black Tap prides itself on its Crazyshakes, which are effectively the dessert menu. But having lost my milk teeth some while ago, I gave them a pass. Tall, hectic and reputationally viral, if they are your thing there’s every chance you won’t be disappointed.
This is a burger joint I would return to. Generous patties, modest chips, and sides, pickled or clean (like my conscience) all served by a charming team in a funky space. It’s a big fat yum from me.
Black Tap is at 4 Glasshouse Street, London, W1B 5DQ – London (Soho) – Black Tap Craft Burgers & Beer
Opening hours: Mon – Thurs: 11am – 11:30pm, Fri & Sat: 11am – 12am; and Sun: 11am – 10pm