Sometimes going out for dinner is about more than just food, it’s about the whole experience. This is particularly true for many of the restaurants that have emerged from the recent explosion of 5 star hotels in the more salubrious parts of the capital. One of the most lauded of which is the Mandarin Oriental in Hannover Square, the second outpost of the ultra-luxury brand in Central London, the other being the justly famous and extremely grand Hyde Park Hotel.
The Mandarin Oriental in Hanover Square is an altogether different animal, with just 50 rooms and suites plus 77 adjacent residences. I suspect it could be among the smallest in the luxury hotel group’s portfolio. It’s more akin to an exclusive set of pied a terres, and has some seriously attractive elements like the subterranean pool which must be one of the longest in London.
So on to the Akira Back restaurant, which has is part of a increasingly global set of restaurants run by the eponymous Korean-American chef and restaurateur which blend traditional techniques with modern influences, reflecting his adventurous background as (honestly true) a former professional snowboarder. The guy is almost annoyingly cool.
Said coolness being fully reflected in the space itself. The venue is simply jaw-dropping. A spiral staircase just past the entrance takes you down into a vast light filled vault stretching back to the edge of the hotel. The triple height skylight floods not only the 148 seats but the trees to the left, the cool waves of wooden arches coming out of the wall on the left as well as the towering mural at the far end. By comparison, the open kitchen which would be the centrepiece elsewhere seems almost a modest afterthought here.
Then the food itself. It is the international pan-asian that has become the lingua franca of high end hotels and restaurants worldwide, in the same way that Italian food was twenty years ago. But that is not a bad thing. There is a reason the dilettante elite like this stuff – it is absolutely delicious.
In fairness I am not overwhelmed by the signature tuna pizza with truffle oil, but I recognise I am I a minority as both my date and indeed everyone else in the restaurant absolutely loves it. However I defer to no-one in my love for the wagyu tacos – rich and indulgent with a delicate sweetness. I could eat them all night, albeit am perfectly happy to turn next to the dynamite lobster. Exclusive to this restaurant it pulls off the diffilcult trick of pairing a creamy yet fiery sauce (with pickled shimeji mushrooms and jalapenos) with perfectly cooked lobster such that the spice brings with it the lobster meat rather than overwhelming it. Quite superb.
Following an exquisite tuna tuna tartare – meltingly perfect – we tgry a well described Perfect Storm signature roll of spicy tuna, prawn tempura, salmon belly aburi, and chipotle mayo is right in my “yes, please” sweet spot, before polishing off a wagyu short rib floating in the most sticky, sweet, lip-smacking braising jus. This is great stuff. And with lovely staff and attentive service to boot. Not the faux simpering type, but young, knowledgeable and engaged. I can see why this place is already a hit with the international monerati and the Mayfair crowd. And it is expensive, but it’s quite an experience and worth having on your special occasions list.
It is also worth making a mention of the delightful and esoteric crockery – all of which are based on designs by Mr Backs mother. There is a level of attention to detail and care here that merits appoval.
Can I finally add a mention to the bar on the top floor which if you are rich, famous or just plain nice they will escort you up to for a pre- or post- dinner drink. It’s a great space, with great views and made even greater still by having an open terrace on which I could sit looking out at a darkening bronze spring sky with a perfect martini in one hand and a cigarette in the other. I mention the latter mostly because I gave up smoking shortly afterwards. But what a final fling.
Akira Back at the Mandarin Oriental
22 Hanover Square, Mayfair, London W1S 1JP
- Breakfast
- 7am – 10am (Monday – Friday)
- 7:30am – 10:30am (Saturday – Sunday)
- Late Breakfast
- 10am – 11:45am (Monday – Friday)
- 10:30am – 12.30pm (Saturday – Sunday)
- Lunch
- 12pm – 2:30pm (Tuesday – Friday)
- 12:30pm – 3pm (Saturday)
- Dinner
- 6pm – 10pm (Tuesday – Wednesday)
- 6pm – 10:30pm (Thursday – Saturday)
- Closed
- Sunday and Monday
- (Lunch and Dinner)
Related post: Restaurant review: Estiatorio Milos, Lower Regent Street