The Bagatelle Group, the high-end French luxury hospitality group, opened Chez Lui in the heart of Notting Hill this summer, bringing a great Parisian style bistro to this bustling and fashionable corner of central London.
Chez Lui is situated where Notting Hill chic meets the incipient edginess of Ladbroke Grove and has all the charm of a quartier restaurant in Saint-Germain-des-Prés complete with tables outside and – dare I say – more polished service than Paris.
The décor of Chez Lui is striking and showcases the talent of Sam Baron, the French born designer behind Dior Maison and Diptyque, the French lifestyle brand.
Upstairs, the eager diner is greeted by a cosy room whose walls are lined by elegant brass mirrors with traditional painted brickwork, a neat row of old books and small tables on each of which a pool of candlelight illuminates a starched white tablecloth and embroidered napkins.
The sense of intimacy and relaxation is immediate, and Chez Lui has effortlessly created the effect which has eluded Lucy Bosi at Josephine Bouchon on the Fulham Road.
The romantic atmosphere, which draws dating couples and the hip Notting Hill crowd as moths to a flame, is complemented by excellent food. The menu offers a range of timeless favourites, such as a cheese and charcuterie platter, beef tartare, roast chicken, steak au poivre, fish and chips, chocolate mousse and tarte tatin.
The menu is, however, deceptively simple and masks the culinary skills of the head chef, Rocco Seminara, who trained under Alain Ducasse.
For example, the long, beautifully quartered radishes swimming in cajun butter cleansed the palate wonderfully, ready for the starters, which are perfect for sharing. We could not resist the soft and runny Tarragon devilled eggs, clothed in black garlic and tarragon. Or the four fried purple artichokes, which looked for all the world like lamb chops and were accompanied by an unusual celery pesto and trout roe dressing. These were simply divine and melted in the mouth.
The main courses were equally delightful. The tiger prawns swum in a delicious lemony sauce alongside grilled leeks and plentiful sautéed clams. The brandy sauce drew out the flavour of the steak au poivre, and the side dishes provided a healthy twist. The roasted cauliflower in a mint sauce and the seasonal steamed asparagus, covered with roasted hazelnuts and an airy citrus mousseline, were an absolute hit.
The good news did not stop there, and the rum baba cakes, filled with pastry and drenched in rum-infused syrup, should be embraced if one can bear to miss out on the filling vanilla crème brûlée.
The wine list is respectable, entirely French and fairly traditional, ranging from reliable picpoul de pinet to decent merlot and pinot noir.
Downstairs, a large bar with velvet banquettes beckons for the diners who can’t bear to leave and casual drinkers seeking adventure in Notting Hill. Chez Lui plans that this will become a fantastic live music and events venue. One can not help but long to host a party in the restaurant and bar.
Chez Lui leaves a lasting impression of excellent service, food which is lovingly prepared and presented and a great ambience.
Chez Lui is the second restaurant which The Bagatelle Group has opened in London, the first being Bagatelle London in Dover Street, Mayfair. The group plans to open more restaurants in London as part of its Le Bistrot Collection. It is rumoured that the first will be Café des Lisas in Belgravia.
Chez Lui 184A Kensington Park Road, Notting Hill W11 2ES. Open every day from noon until 11pm and bookings may be made by email at [email protected] or by telephone on +44 020 4625 7391.
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