It is fairly common knowledge that we taste with our eyes as much as our tastebuds.
What began as an evolutionary imperative to use all available senses to determine whether something is safe or beneficial to eat has evolved through plating up, design, and serving theatrics that extend way beyond, “Is eating this really a good idea?”
But it goes further than that. It turns out we also taste with our mood. The décor of an establishment and the manner of the staff do not only contribute to the experience of the visit, but actually influence taste and, possibly more importantly, our memories of it.
From the moment we arrived to explore the brand new brunch menu at The Rail House, Victoria, the whole experience made the food taste better, before we had even looked at a menu.
The dining room is bright and airy. An artfully distressed corrugated tin ceiling soars two stories above us. This combines with raffia lampshades and deep green jungle plants to give the impression of a grand but aging colonial railway station. All in Victoria. All the attraction of an Instagram photo without any of the inconvenient surprises of reality. It feels like walking onto a movie set.
The open pass offers a glimpse into the kitchens. Flame flares through clouds of steam, seducing the eyes with the promise of delights to come.
Not just the eyes. The smells of smoked aubergine, deep tangy sauces, and the sounds of clattering pans and sizzling meat complete a comprehensive assault on all the senses.
Now, of course, I am not saying all this means they could have served flavoured cardboard and we would have loved it, but the food already tasted good, and we had not even sat down. I am not being poetic. This is real science. Let us see if they are right.
A bright host took us to a comfortable table where we met the excellent Richard, who spent the next hour and a half acting like we were the most important people in his universe. Ever.
I would not usually hit the booze at 10 a.m., but in the service of journalism, shucks, what a trooper, I ordered that brunch staple loved the world over, the Bloody Mary. They make a really good one here. Full of spice and life, turning that blandest of mixers into a delight.
My companion had an alcohol-free Bellini. It was pretty good, though as sweet as you would expect alcohol-free wine to be. But maybe that is just what you need for brunch after a night out?
I was just starting to feel the effects of the vodka when our starters arrived. Courgette fritters on beet hummus with feta were tasty. I wouldn’t have put the tempura herbs on top, though. Herbs deep-fried in batter are just too, well, herbs-deep-fried-in-batter for me. Perhaps fewer on the plate would help. I could always try not eating them all.
We also had the burnt miso aubergine. This was a brand new dish on the brunch menu that morning. In fact, we were excited to discover we were the first punters to ever try it. That open pass now became part of the experience, the chefs trying desperately hard to get on with their jobs while not looking over to gauge our reactions to the new plate on the block. The dressing was good and flavourful, but the fruit needed to relax a bit, perhaps by cooking a little longer or slower. But hey, it was its first outing. I’d be uptight if it was my first ever time at the pass, too. I am sure they will have it figured out by lunchtime.
Then we took on those brunch classics: a full English and eggs Benedict.
The sausages were stand-out; herby, meaty, and excellently cooked. The smoky baked beans are worth a return trip. The rest of it was as you would expect from a decent brunch bistro. But, and I have said this before, it is hard to see how one can elevate scrambled eggs. They just need to be done well. At The Rail House, they are.
My ‘nduja eggs Benedict are uncommon though. A hollandaise of the brightest, nuclear orange I have ever seen, which is fun. It is laced through with ‘nduja. Depending on who you talk to, ‘nduja is either a hot and spicy pâté or a hot and spicy spreadable salami. Whichever, it is certainly hot and spicy, and the flavour dominates the dish. If you do not like hot salami, order the trad version. If lively is your thing, then dive into the one I had.
All in all, a fun brunch with some deft touches, plenty of reliably good classics, and one nervous aubergine. But getting back to my first point: dining, and especially brunch, is not just about the food. The whole experience plays a part, turning the accomplishment into a memory. That is why you will have a great time at The Rail House. Go with a gang after a night out in town or before getting the Gatwick Express. Super design, great atmosphere, excellent staff, and some nice twists on classic brunch add up. Trust your evolutionary instincts. It really is a good idea.
Rail House Victoria – homepage – 8 Sir Simon Milton Square, London SW1E 5DJ – 020 3906 7950
Opening hours: Mon – Fri 07.30- 23.00, Sat 09.00 – 23.00 and Sun 09.00 – 17.00