As you’re no doubt aware, food is a multi-sensory experience. It goes far beyond taste, with sight, smell and touch all playing key parts in dish.
But sound can be crucial as well. And when you’re eating to a soundtrack as killer as the one in Moi, a new high-end Japanese cuisine offering in Soho, it’s not just your tastebuds that end up dancing.
Led by Andy Cook, former chef at the Gordon Ramsay Group, MOI marks the debut of MAD Restaurants, the new hospitality group with MOI as the first in a collection of innovative restaurant concepts.
The restaurant, found midway down Wardour Street in Soho, uses fantastic British produce and open-fire cooking to deliver a bold, refined offering with contemporary Japanese influence.
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The first thing you notice as you enter the main restaurant area is the musical influence though. With records adorning the walls you’ll hear music from all eras and genres, from a specially-curated playlist. Down a grand spiral staircase, you’ll find a sushi counter (opening on 2 Sept) along with a listening room.
The listening room in particular is an intriguing prospect. Inspired by Tokyo’s hidden vinyl bars, it features a bespoke sound system by Friendly Pressure and will host music-led events such as guest vinyl residencies. Opening on 25 September, it will have a late licence and will be bookable.
So, the ambience is perfect to enjoy a cocktail or some sake to whilst you peruse the fascinating menu.
Moi doesn’t follow the typical starter/main/dessert formula. Instead, you’re advised to first enjoy some sashimi or nagiri. It would be borderline nonsensical to visit a Japanese restaurant and not treat yourself to some, and Moi doesn’t disappoint when it comes to Japan’s most iconic dish.
We went for the Chef’s Sashimi Selection (pictured below), which consisted of Charcoal-Seared Bream, Hay-Smoked Trout, Akami Tuna and Hand Dived Scallop.
This was some of the freshest sushi I’d ever had. Each offering distinct from the last, and all packed with flavour.
So, on to the main menu, which you’ll find divided into five sections. The first two parts are snacks and raw, and whilst the offerings all sound fantastic, we didn’t opt for any of these in favour of saving space for some of the meatier dishes on offer below.
The menu then is divided into three categories – binchotan, hornbeam and birch – each named after the type of wood and live fire cooking method used.
Here, those of you who aren’t big fans of fish can fill your boots. We went for
- Chicken & Blood Sausage Tsukune, with Cured Egg Yolk: a decadent meaty delight, drizzled in egg yolk to create one of the moistest and richest sausages you’ve ever had.
- Beef Tongue, Shishito Pepper, Marigold Miso: succulent ribbons of beef tongue deliver a succulent hit of umami goodness.
- Hispi Cabbage, Shiitake Mushroom, Fried Ginger Dressing: a fresh side of cabbage, mushrooms and ginger help to cut through the richness of the meat dishes with a satisfying crunch.
- Duroc Pork Chop, Fermented Pepper & Peach and wood: the highest compliment to pay these pork chops was that they were as beautifully fatty as pork belly, covered in moreish umami flavours and a mustard that packs a punch.
- Roasted English Leeks with sesame and alliums: with a satisfying level of char, these leeks keep the umami flavours coming and we cooked to perfection.
Alongside these dishes, we sampled some of the fine cocktails on offer. Pictured below are the Akiberi (wild strawberry, cherry blossom vermouth and red miso) and Floregano punch (pineapple, oregano, Bolivian grape spirit and lime). We also started off with a glass of the At Ease (peach, sparkling oolong tea, sudachi, junmai sake, vodka). These were all refreshing and beautifully crafted, and were the perfect accompaniment no matter which dish we were eating.
There’s always room for dessert though:
- The chocolate mousse with tonka beans and Jersey milk ice cream: just the right amount to not feel like too much, and the ice cream provided a subtle saltiness to compliment the decadent chocolate mousse.
- Shaved ice kakigori with English raspberries, sansho and burnt meringue: eating shavings of ice is a peculiar sensation, but this dessert delivered a powerful burst of raspberry flavour, with the burnt meringue offering a creamy companion. More of the meringue would have made this the perfect dessert, but it was still a refreshing round-off to the meal.
Moi has plenty more that we simply didn’t have the time to try, such as an extensive wine list and dozens of flavoured sakes.
Considering the establishment only had has half of its offering actually open, Moi is no doubt going to become a double threat of both a place to enjoy fantastic food and a stylish music destination to have a drink.
Moi is located at 84 Wardour St, London W1F 0TQ, UK.
Opening hours: Tuesday – Saturday 12.00-14.30 18.00-22.00 Sunday 12.30-15.30