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Restaurant review: Chelsea Physic Garden Supper Club Series

Supper in one of the oldest botanical gardens in Britain. What's not to like?

Andrew Wylie by Andrew Wylie
2024-07-30 17:00
in Food and Drink
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Chelsea Physic Garden hosts a series of supper clubs throughout the spring and summer in its marvellous botanical garden, which offers possibly the most distinctive al fresco dining experience in London.

Each supper club is based around a four-course menu which Head Chef Felipe de Jesus weaves around a different culinary theme for each evening, ranging this summer from British, French, Italian, Mediterranean and Mexican to Seafood. There is also a stylish live jazz accompaniment for several of the supper clubs.

The supper club begins with an aperitif which guests may imbibe as they saunter in couples or small groups through the gloriously deserted walkways of the Chelsea Physic Garden.

The menu for each supper club is – deliberately – not elaborate and will appeal to a wide range of palates. For example, the menu for the recent seafood supper club comprised a starter of delicate torched Cornish mackerel with chermoula, fig leaf oil and capers, a main course of dry aged gilthead bream, yellowfin tuna, seaweed and kohlrabi and pudding of white chocolate, coconut, cardamon and lemon verbena. It was simply delicious, and notably, reasonably priced.

The wine list for the supper clubs contains a decent range of modestly priced champagne, red, rose, sparkling and white wines. This includes a refreshing Boatman’s Drift Chenin Blanc from South Africa which is a pale lemon in colour and exudes an entirely fitting bouquet of apple and white flowers.

It would be foolish, however, to overlook the remarkable setting in which these supper clubs take place. For the Chelsea Physic Garden is an ancient botanical garden which occupies a four-acre site near the River Thames between Cheyne Walk and the King’s Road. It was established in 1673 by the Worshipful Society of Apothecaries in order to provide training to its apprentices and it has remained a teaching garden for over 350 years.

Unusually for a botanical garden, the Chelsea Physic Garden is dedicated solely to plants which are edible, medicinal or otherwise useful and is home to over 4,500 species of such plants, including a bespoke poison garden. Unsurprisingly, it is amongst the oldest botanical gardens in Britain, second only to the Oxford Botanic Garden.

It is worth striking two notes of caution about the supper clubs at The Chelsea Physic Garden. First, they are riotously popular so early booking is essential. Second, a chill can descend on the walled garden in the evening and warm clothing should not be neglected.

It should be borne in mind that the Chelsea Physic Garden and the charming Physic Garden Café which it houses are open to the general public for most of the year and host a range of interesting events, not least parts of the Chelsea History Festival which will run from 25-29 September in 2024.

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