At the foot of Lausanne Train Station, where the Métro starts its slow roll towards the port station of Ouchy, there’s an independent wine bar that props its entire food offering around a simple staple; bread.
But the bread served in Ta Cave, a crowdfunded bistro bar on Rue du Simplon, isn’t any old bread. It is a bread you store like your favourite record collection, in racks with insignia printed on its face and a glistening, polished sheen.
They call it ‘Un Pain d’Émotions’, or ‘a bread of emotions’, and for me, La Meule is everything that good food should be; simple, well-executed and bloody delicious.
Lausanne: A culinary capital?
While Lausanne might not be an obvious choice as one of Europe’s culinary centres, it is quietly emerging as a top gastronomic spot in a seriously crowded market – so Swiss, right?
Located a skipping stone’s throw away from France’s Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region, where chefs cook ‘Lyonese style’ and Beaujolais runs like water, the canton of Vaud certainly rubs shoulders with the right sort of places.
Yet Lausanne manages to retain its own identity while soaking up the richness of its surroundings, and in no place is that more evident than in the vineyard terraces of Lavaux.
Wine in Lausanne
Wine in this corner of Switzerland comes in many shapes and sizes, but the one people talk about the most is Chasselas.
Grown a short ride out of Lausanne on a number of the 830 hectares of terraced vineyards that stretch for about 30 km along the south-facing northern shores of Lake Geneva, Chasselas makes low acidity, creamy white wines that even the “red wine only” drinkers can love.
And trust me, when you’re stood looking over that lake on a sunny day with a cold glass in your hand, I’d challenge any drinker not to fall head over heels for it.
Although Swiss wine isn’t something you’re likely to spot outside of Switzerland – they export just 2 per cent of what they grow – it is widely consumed within the country.
Most restaurants, bars and cafes will have a selection of local wine to choose from, but if you want to get the full experience, try coinciding your visit with an open cellar day when around 200 regional ‘caves’ throw open their doors and offer tastings for just 40 Swiss francs.
Five restaurants in Lausanne that you should try out
Finding a good restaurant in Lausanne is becoming increasingly like shooting fish in a barrel, but if you’re stuck for time or just want a good starting point, here are five places you might want to consider:
Le Nabi
Experience the wonderfully creative culinary creations of chef Bruno Andrade at Le Nabi, located in Musée des Beaux-Arts a short walk away from the train station. The menu draws its inspiration from local artisans and farmers, and is probably one of the most inventive list of rotating selections you’re likely to find in a museum.
Ta Cave
Local wines, cold meats and beautiful cheeses are all on offer at Ta Cave to be consumed with the wonderful La Meule bread. Through the day La Meule is sliced in half to create sandwiches to go, while in the evening it is cut into small wedges to accompany mouth-watering platters.
Café de Grancy
Cafe de Grancy is somewhat of an institution in Lausanne. The food is reliable and tasty, service is good, and atmosphere is nice. Local wines are on offer and there are rotating specials to be enjoyed within a comfortable and homely environment.
Brasserie de Montbenon
Scale the infamous hills of Laussane or catch the Metro to Vigie to dine in the refined buildings of Casino de Montbenon. Alongwith classic architecture Brasserie de Montbenon offers seasonal, gourmet and local food and wine as well as superb views over the lake during the day.
Monco’Pain Boulanger
If you’re looking for a treat, Monco’Pain Boulanger has a wonderful selection of cakes and patisseries which can be boxed up and taken home or smuggled onto the train for a luxurious snack.
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