One minute, I’m sitting in a plush, caramel leather recliner, hooked up to an IV as a Fanta-orange liquid is pumped into my veins. The next, a masseuse is kneading my taut muscles as I lie face down on a heated massage bed.
This isn’t Lanserhof or a LA yoga retreat for minor celebrities. I’m at RAKxa, one of the world’s most prestigious fully-integrated wellness centres, located on the island of Bang Krachao in Bangkok, known as the city’s “green lung.”
The cutting-edge health sanctuary is spread across 80 acres of lush flora and fauna. It merges modern, science-based treatments led by qualified doctors with traditional Thai, Chinese, and Ayurvedic practices. These range from Tai Chi and cryotherapy to acupuncture and assessments of functional fitness. Other metrics you’d never think about are also assessed, such as blood health.
“Wow, your metabolic age is 19. That’s better than mine!” Dr. Varisara exclaims as she scrolls through my blood work findings on the monitor. We’re sitting in a mocha-toned consultation room that feels more like a Silicon Valley CEO’s office than a doctor’s clinic. Examining the data, she spins round and asks, “What did you score on your functional fitness test?”
“Full marks, they said. Whatever that means,” I reply flippantly.
“You scored 12!?” she exclaims, clearly surprised. “Your body is very fit. Let’s check your blood age. Okay, 39 – that’s older than your actual age, but it’s still within the expected range,” she says, her expression a mix of relief and mild concern.
Dr. Varisara is in her fifties with the skin of a teenager, the physique of an athlete, and the energy of someone in their twenties. She’s the embodiment of the wellness lifestyle – a crown currently claimed by Wim Hof who looks more like a bloke playing snooker at a working men’s club.
I’d spent my fair share of time in such clubs over the past few months, back home in Middlesbrough after a rough patch of anxiety, depression, and burnout. That’s how I ended up here. Up until the moment I was greeted by the hum of Tibetan bowls, I wasn’t sure I’d make it. I was burnt out, worn down by life’s hardships – family illnesses, work stress, and financial worries.
A few hours in, I’m glad I made it. Everything here is serene, from the environment to the staff, who float around with a yogi-like grace wearing t-shirts with RAKxa’s slogan “Health is Wealth” on the back. All are well-versed in the retreat’s core programmes, which include ‘De-Stress,’ ‘Rebalance,’ and ‘Gut Health.’ Each programme focuses on restoring mental and physical equilibrium through a combination of therapies, nutrition, and movement.
Despite being only 30 to 40 minutes from Bangkok, RAKxa feels worlds away. Towering skyscrapers and the hum of mopeds are replaced by 80 acres of nature – serene lakes, frangipani trees, and dense palm groves. The key ingredient is silence. Later, while lying on a soft daybed in the Japandi-inspired relaxation area, I get a glimpse of the two worlds I’m straddling. One is Bangkok’s iconic skyline, a faint line in the background, representing the chaotic, anxious thoughts that still spin in my mind. The other is the calm I’m seeking: quiet, gentle moments by the lake as a water monitor glides effortlessly through it.
Above a jetty, a bird of prey swoops across the blue sky like a kite. This spot quickly becomes my favourite place to escape to. I visit daily between treatments, dinner, and circuits in the hydrotherapy area, which features steam rooms, an infrared sauna, and a hydro pool with water jets and waterfalls. The schedule is packed but not exhausting.
There are three main zones: Jai, Gaya, and the VitalLife Scientific Wellness Clinic. Guests float between massages at the earthy-toned Jai – meaning ‘heart’ in Thai – and reformer Pilates in Gaya. Gaya houses a well-equipped gym and a stunning, underused pool. Meanwhile, the science centre is where guests undergo blood tests, consultations, or sessions in the hyperbaric chamber.
If not, they’re cycling from their spacious 80-square-metre villas to lunch or dinner. Each villa is fitted with luxurious amenities – curved sofas, expansive bathtubs with Epsom salts, and large TVs. Yet the minimalist, wood-toned decor ensures the focus remains on relaxation and reconnection. The fridges are empty (no booze, processed snacks, or junk food), except for four health shots. A variety of herbal teas are provided in-room, while the tea lounge near the lobby offers over a dozen blends, each designed with specific health benefits in mind.
Meals are exceptional. Every dish is tailored to dietary needs with scientific precision. Typically, a cold tea, a health shot, or a glass of kombucha starts the meal, followed by jasmine water and gluten-free bread with olive oil and balsamic. It’s the best gluten-free bread I’ve ever tasted, with each day bringing a new flavour – carrot, pumpkin, or sweet potato.
After a few days, my mind’s incessant chatter begins to quiet. Not completely, but in those moments of calm, I feel genuinely happy and relaxed for the first time in years. When I send a photo of myself getting an IV drip to my girlfriend, she tells me my skin is glowing. My stomach feels less bloated, and the indigestion that plagued me for years is almost gone. Though my muscles ache from the workouts – reformer Pilates, hip-opening yoga, and corrective exercise – overall, I feel good.
“You’re living like Kim Kardashian – no wonder you feel good,” a friend jokes when I send them a video of me emerging from a cryo chamber at -110°C like a contestant on Stars in Their Eyes.
Like those contestants, my journey has been transformative – not just physically but mentally. My final meeting with Dr. Smita, a calming Ayurvedic specialist from Goa, feels like a month of therapy. Without me saying a word, she tells me I’m holding a lot of emotional distress that I’m struggling to release.
When I explain feeling guilty for letting people down, she responds, “If you were put on this earth to make everyone happy, you’d be an ice cream seller. But you’re not, are you?” A witty but clever analogy.
Her words and my experience at RAKxa have taught me that my body and mind are stronger than I give them credit for. My problems are caused not by weaknesses but by the stories I tell myself. It’s the way I attach meaning to things that should be let go.
The treatments helped, but it’s the newfound – perhaps fleeting – sense of inner confidence and self-belief that I’ll carry with me. And for that, I feel truly grateful. I’d better run; I’m even starting to sound like a Kardashian.
Fact Box
Website: rakxawellness.com
Address: 28/8 9 Wat Bang Nam Phueng Alley, Phra Pradaeng District, Samut Prakan 10130, Thailand.
Cost: Prices vary programme to programme, but a three-night stay – with transfers, treatments, consultations and meals included – is from around £3025.