I was always very fond of the River Restaurant (formerly the River Room) at the Savoy. It was a place that bridged to an earlier era of hotel restaurants. Not the embryonic names, like it’s sister restaurant, The Savoy Grill, but more the places I remember from childhood visits to London, like the grand old room at the then Piccadilly Hotel (now, inexplicably, called “The Dilly” – did someone actually get paid for suggesting that. Or even worse, get paid for thinking it was a good suggestion).
It was a reliable, grown up sort of place in an era when you did not need to own a hedge fund to go into a five star hotel. In fact, there were no hedge funds. Which was good. And the River Room was properly at the heart of the Savoy in a way that the Grill was not. It had (you guessed it) great views of the river and offered a menu of reliable favourites. I used it to take groups out for birthdays, or to celebrate Thanksgiving with American friends. I had a lot of very fun evenings relaxing into martinis and lobster bisque.
One of those rather nice, very reliable special places.
But then, it sort of fell off my radar for a while.
Until I noticed that it had a very enticing offer combining two of my absolute favourite things: champage ad oysters! More specifically, the River Restaurant has a great special offer in conjunction with Perrier-Jouët, of three oysters with every glass of Perrier-Jouët Blanc de Blancs (£37). Perrier-Jouët is a long-time favourite, made from 100 per cent Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs and a perfect partner for the Maldon oysters on offer, which were served with classic mignonette, lemon and Tabasco. Difficult to decide which is softer or creamier, but I know I could eat and drink these all day long. And – spoiler alert – at what is a not unreasonable price in the plutocratic world of the top hotels.
And remember that The Savoy is as top as it gets – cool trivia points: the first hotel to have en suite bathrooms and Auguste Escoffier was at one time the chef here. The building is an art deco masterpiece, and the River Restaurant itself has been restored so beautifully it is almost unrecognisable from it’s former chintzy self. Just take a look a the photographs. Then add in the eponymous view of Old Man Thames and you really have got a spectacular space.
Which is oddly more than can be said about The Gallery – the room you pass through en route from the entrance and in which they serve afternoon tea. It used to be a delightful space in which to lose part of the day. Not quite sure I like the redecoration there, but in any event the contrast just shows what a wonderful job they have done with the River Restaurant.
So, nicely ensconsed, and with some very attentive and rather wonderful waitstaff, we polished off the oysters and turned to take a look at the menu proper. It was relaunched by Gordon Ramsay in 2021 as a more relaxed, all-day, seafood-focused venue with the aim of showcasing the best of British shellfish and seafood.
There’s no other way of putting it than that a broad smile broke out across my face. This is my kind of food. Native langoustine bisque, with rouille and melba toast (£18), grilled octopus with foamed potato and blood orange vinaigrette (£23), or yellowfin tuna carpaccio with a ponzu and lemongrass dressing coriander and crispy shallots (£28). These are greatest hits dishes at distinctly non-five star prices. I had devilled crab, lemon jam, tomato ponzu and sourdough crumpets (£25). Spectacular. The sweet crab meat offset by sharp lemon, and it’s soft texture held up by crisp sourdough.
The main courses offered similar riches, with a very tempting curried monkfish with kohlrabi bajii and kaffir lime yoghurt (£38) and what can only be described as proper fish and chips for a most reasonable £29.50. I was tempted, as ever, by halibut (possibly the greatest of all fish?), but in the end we could not resist going for the of-the-moment salmon wellington for two with celeriac puree (and I love celeriac puree) and fish jus. We were very pleased we did firm but flaky pastry giving was to pink flesh that flaked as you would want it. And for only £75 for two.
Beef Wellington was available as well, but come on, when in Rome….
Puddings were something of a step too far after such a meal, but if you can resist black forest trifle then you made of sterner stuff than me.
So what to make of it all? Serious food at prices way below what I would expect in a hotel like the Savoy. Playful takes on 70s classics and some of the moment dishes. A beautiful, beautiful room with comfortable chairs, spacious tables and a gentle hush of prosperity and happiness. Some of the friendliest waitstaff I have come across.
Which makes the River Restaurant perfect for a long lunch with old friends, a catch up with a mate, a birthday dinner or a pre-theatre supper. It’s got it all.
Baby, it’s back!
The River Restaurant, The Savoy Hotel, The Strand WC2R 0EU – The River Restaurant – 020 7499 0122
Monday – Friday
7am-10:30am
12pm-12am
Saturday
7:30am-10:30am
12pm-12am
Sunday
7:30am-10:30am
12pm-11pm