Granary Square and its neighbour Coal Drops Yard have taken quite a while to come of age but fair to say they’re now wearing long trousers, and the weekend hums with visitors. Tucked in the south east corner lies The Lighterman, a hostelry built precisely for the redevelopment.
Long a fan of its architects, Stanton Williams, this building is a bit special, bathed in light with panoramic views of the surroundings including the Grand Union Canal with narrow boats and towpath fauna.
Inside and, always a good sign, the spacing of the seating is very generous, the room gloriously light – perfect for a Sunday lunch.
Respectful to the locale, mine’s a pint of Camden hells, my guest’s a Bloody Mary. And the Mary is bloody good, garnished with lemon, cherry tom and a cornichon.
Led to our table on the first floor, we are afforded the gun-man’s seat in the far corner complete with a sea-view (well, canal). Perfect for watching the world float by.
Armed with a glass each of a cru bourgeois Haut Medoc, the feasting begins.
Dressed crab is served on fingers of fried sourdough. Light, sweet and delightful.
Chicken terrine with ham hock and date ketchup arrives with crisp sourdough toasts, and is every bit as wonderful as it sounds. Just one of those dishes I never make at home yet fall upon when out.
Now be not in any frantic hurry, mind, as the mains arrived nearly an hour after the starters.
The roasts themselves are presented identically, one with two slices of roast beef, the other a half-chicken. Served with roast carrot and parsnip, spuds, swede and my fave, Savoy cabbage. And the Yorkshire’s are proper blousy. Roast spuds are fine, though not exceptional.
Having been brined, the chicken is herby, buttery and bright, while the beef is just as you should wish, with a lightly pink heart.
When it comes to sides, the cauliflower cheese is well worth it and we also tried the cabbage and ham hock. But just don’t order both as they equally slathered in the same cheese bechamel. Of the cabbage and ham hock, we had hoped for something clean and simple to mitigate the indulgence of the roasts. But no.
If you hurry you might get there in time for one of their currently seasonal desserts, blackberry fool. Delivered in a glass, it’s topped with soft meringue, lightly flamed and it’s a must. And the ‘dark chocolate crémeux’, also to be recommended, is so rich you’ll struggle to finish it.
SUMMARY:
For a leisurely Sunday roast The Lighterman is a very good option. Beautiful environment, charming team and a keenly priced menu that hits the spot. Am now so full I no longer bend in the middle…
The Lighterman is at 3 Granary Square, London N1C 4BH – The Lighterman
Opening hours:
Mon-thurs 12pm – 11:30pm
Friday 12:00am – 12:00am
Saturday 10:00am – 12:00am
Sunday 10:00am – 10:30am