Destruction and rebirth is forever the story of most parts of life, and the hospitality sector is no exception. So among the doom and gloom of venue that unfortunately have had to close, there are also the shoots of new life in new openings. And some of these are very appetising indeed…
As we reported, it was sad news that Victor Garvey’s restaurant at the Midland Grand St. Pancras had to close. However, the “most beautiful” dining room in London is not lost, albeit it is perhaps not the most beautiful– surely it would be old The Criterion, now Masala Zone on Piccadilly Circus – sic transit gloria mundi Anyway, I digress, because the good news in that Hawksmoor is set to take over the Midland Grand Dining Room and which will become the group’s 14th restaurant. Steak restaurants are not really my thing, but if you are going to go to one then I would say make sure it is one of the Hawksmoor places, because they are truly excellent.
Much more my thing is Kiln, the intoxicating and crazily cheap Thai barbecue restaurant, with a Bib Gourmand no less, on Brewer Street – if you have not been then frankly there’s on helping you. The group behind Kiln, Super 8, are also the owners of Brat, Mountain and the Smoking Goat. So their form is spot on. And now they are set to open a new restaurant in Soho with the former co-owner and head chef of Kiln, Meedu Saad. It will be based around Egyptian grilled meat, fish and vegetables, and aims to “recall the energy of the Friday markets in Cairo”. I love Kiln, I love Cairo, I love Cairene food. I cannot tell you how excited I am about this. I just cannot believe we are going to have to wait until Spring 2026 for it to open.
Talking about blasts from the past, the former F Cooke & Sons pie and mash shop which closed a few years ago is sort of coming back to life. It was always a stunning Grade II listed building but never recaptured any of it’s old feel as board games bar Draughts. But now the Exhale Brewery (owners of the Three Colts Tavern in Bethnal Green) are re-opening the venue as karaoke, darts and food pub, The Black Eel, with head chef Billy Fisher, formerly of Lagom and The Hawke. Let’s hope this one works, and you can find it at 41 Kingsland High Street, Dalston and where The Black Eel opens on October 24th.
From a Dalston pub, to a proper big opening: Motorino at 1 Pearson Square, Fitzrovia, which has been launched by Luke Ahearne (of Michelin star restaurants Lita and Luca) and Stevie Parle (chef-at Town and Pastaio). It is an interesting mix of seasonal British and Irish produce with an Italian slant to the recipes, and unsurprisingly promises a serious cocktail bar. I think getting a table here could prove tricky in the run up to Christmas.
Motorino – 1 Pearson Square, Fitzrovia, London, W1T 3BF
The rebirth of Chelsea as a dining destination continues apace with the opening of a new premium grocery store and dining destination on the King’s Road, where you can pop in for coffees, artisan sandwiches and top end salads alongside other offerings such as a fish counter featuring an exclusive, premium range of fish. But best of all is that there will be a countertop dining sushi bar, ASA, and a wood-fired pintxos tapas spot, Salvador, with service going into the evening. I’m looking forward to the opening night in a few weeks, and from what I have seen so far this looks perfect for a well heeled Chelsea crowd.
Arthur’s Market, 279A King’s Road, London SW3 5EW
But the one I am really, really looking forward to is China Bistro which we are promised will open on Ealing Broadway this month. They promise a “bold” take on Indo-Chinese cooking, which is apparently about bringing together Kolkata and Hakka techniques that celebrate the flavours of India. Momos and wok dishes, and robata grill, this just sounds wonderful and I cannot wait to try the food…
China Bistro, 5-6 The Green, Ealing, W5 5DA – www.chinabistro.co.uk