IN SHORT:
Food: 8.0/10
Service: 8.5/10
Atmosphere: 8/10
Overall: 8.2/10
THE DETAIL:
A dozen or so years ago, when I was living in Waterloo, I inadvertently became a regular at a pub in Covent Garden, just across the bridge. A four-storey Victorian boozer with an eclectic crowd—from the orchestra and crew of the Opera House to footwear buyers for Paul Smith—The Globe was a fun place. One year I managed to snaffle tickets to all the dress rehearsals of new productions of ballet and opera, which was spectacular. Back then, it was a free house, and somewhere along the line it changed its name to The Covent Garden before eventually being bought out by City Pub Group, transforming into its new identity: The Bow Street Tavern.
The Globe did serve food, though I remember the landlord once lamenting how difficult it was to deliver consistency – he’d have preferred to just pour pints. More recently, Young’s bought it out – already owning two other pubs on Bow Street – and refurbished it under their brand. I went along to see how they’d approach the food offer.
The interiors are dark, yet warm and welcoming. The walls are lined with old prints and photos, the ceiling with deep, glossy anaglypta. It’s ideal for cosy pre-theatre drinks. Each floor offers different nooks and spaces to hunker down in or take over for a private function – and there’s even a roof terrace with pretty views.
Young’s have been very clever in grouping these three pubs in close proximity, allowing them to share the catering team between sites. This enables the creation of homemade ingredients in volume – something a standalone pub might struggle to achieve. Their menu is compact and well thought through, offering everything from snacks to full plates, all based on traditional pub fare with a dash of wit and flair.
We kicked off with a cocktail and a Young’s bitter. The Hugo Spritz is elderflower-based, light, and not overly sweet – a perfect summertime tipple.
I recognise in hindsight that we over-ordered, but I needed to try all these things. From the small plates we started with a Cumberland Scotch Egg, which is outstanding – served with homemade, fine-cut piccalilli. A perfect pairing.
Their whitebait, breaded and fried, come with a chunky tartare sauce. I could happily eat them all day. As Al Murray ‘the Pub Landlord’ might say, they are “a beautiful British bar snack.”
Mains:
Steak and Young’s Ale Pie
These are made for the chain and are exceptional – shortcrust pastry with a full, flavoursome filling. It comes with boiled cabbage (a personal favourite), mashed potato and gravy. Utterly delicious. This is a stand-out dish.
Cyder-Battered Haddock and Chips
The fish is spot-on; translucent and flaky, served on triple-cooked chips with a trio of sauces: tartare, ketchup, and curry sauce (nice touch). The chips are chunky and proper, while the mushy peas are natural, pale and honest.
As a side, the charred broccoli is beautiful to look at – presented with finely sliced red chilli – and has a great bite. However, while individually very good, it doesn’t quite fit with the rest of the menu, being too garlicky and salty. After all, we were devotedly out for “an English.”
Our lubricant of choice was a very nice Chilean Merlot—medium-bodied with a dash of tannins.
There are three puds: homemade ice cream, Stilton with chutney, or sticky toffee pudding—the last being the logical option. Not over-sticky (in a good way), nor overly rich, it’s a perfect sharer.
SUMMARY:
Overall, I was delighted to see my old haunt being loved and cared for—finding a new lease of life with Young’s. Don’t expect gastropub fare per se, but do expect an imaginative and intelligent take on traditional pub grub.
The Bow Street Tavern is well worth the visit.
The Bow Street Tavern, 37 Bow Street, Covent Garden, WC2E 7AU – The Bow Street Tavern – 020 7379 0154
Opening hours:
- Monday – Thursday: 11:00 AM to 11:00 PM
- Friday & Saturday: 11:00 AM to Midnight
- Sunday: 12:00 PM to 10:00 PM
- Food Service: 12:00 PM to 9:00 PM daily