One place that I really miss is legendary Soho cocktail club Milk & Honey, which opened its doors in 2002 and which was inspired by and partnered with Sasha Petraske’s secretive yet legendary bar of the same name in New York. Milk & Honey defined and shape the speakeasy revival at the start of the millennium. For 18 years it was consistently named one of the best cocktail bars in London, providing the perfect darkened date-night spot for many. And there was always that moment of excitement when someone discovered that dark, unmarked door on Poland Street with the discreet button being the only clue that you could gain entry. It was magical.
Then, in 2020, the bar’s owner, Jonathan Downey, broke the news to members that Milk & Honey was closing as the bar’s lease was coming to an end and he had been unable to obtain a commercial extension. And that was unfortunately that.
But now there is a spiritual heir to Milk & Honey, albeit on a smaller scale, tucked away beneath Drink with Sasha. On the northern end of Dukes Street, just by Selfriges. Scales Opened in December 2023 and is the brainchild of passionate mixologists Din Jusufi and Engji Shala, who honed their craft for five years at the acclaimed restaurant Farzi London. It is secretive, the drinks are cultured and can be lethal. It is the perfect secret haven for cocktail enthusiasts. It is a speakeasy!
You step in through a discreet door (yes!!!) in the wine shop with the clue being that it is adorned with the bar’s logo. Then down some dimly lit stairs into the most beautiful, dark temple to cocktails (yes! yes!). The feel lights up the hairs on your neck – a beautiful central bar, discreet art, tables nestled in corners, the whispered rustle of conversation, Din and Engji immaculately dressed, and the chink of expert and lethal cocktails being prepared. The speakeasy is back!
At Scales, chemistry and balance, as reflected in the name, are at the core of the mission: evident in the laboratory where all the cocktails are prepared. These guys are driven to explore every aspect of what makes a perfect cocktail.
There is an extensive range of equipment in the lab that extracts the flavours of fresh produce into the cocktails, including a centrifuge that is used to separate solids from liquids in fresh fruits and veg, and also to extract flavour into a spirit. This results in elegant, clear drinks, changing the overall texture of the cocktail as well.
The seasonal menus focus on fresh, locally sourced ingredients, each expertly extracted and combined into unique flavour combinations. Scales’ menu is a testament to this philosophy.
My guest tried a superb Shiso Apple, featuring Desi Daru vodka, shiso leaf, green apple, and bergamot. I had the most elegant Tomato cocktail which had a pale light sheen that spoke of serious alcohol with a taste that was extraordinary – that of the piquant essence of tomato. Exquisite.
Owner Engji Shala said: “Our ethos revolves around balance, precision and consistency. Each drink follows a pattern of seasonality using fresh produce, expertly extracted into the cocktails. We started the bar in the hopes of bridging the gap of understanding between the consumer and the modern-day crafts of cocktails.”
I can testify that he means it. These are serious cocktails for serious people in an elegant, slightly naughty and beautiful space. It is the polar opposite of the cocktail factories spread around Mayfair. I am so pleased that the spirit of the speakeasy is alive in London again.
Scales is open to customers Tuesday-Saturday evenings.
www.scalesbar.com | Instagram: @scaleslondon | 25 Duke St, London W1U 1DJ
Related post: Restaurant review: Ixchel, Chelsea