‘Never meet your heroes,’ they say. Yet, from time to time, the exception proves the rule. This week I was invited to PAUL Bankside to sample Blanc’s brace of guest sandwiches.
PAUL, the French bakery, first caught my attention some 20 years ago when I was a ‘frequent flier’ on the Eurostar. Most UK efforts back then involved leopard loaves and a Chelsea bun. Meanwhile, PAUL’s quiches were virtually holy communion. And at around the same time, the only cookbook I would ever actually open and use was Cooking for Friends by Raymon Blanc.
So to the sandwiches: His Le Boeuf Blanc, is a cheeky nod to our nickname in France, Les Rosbif. Tender, pink and generously cut, with celeriac remoulade, horseradish and truffle oil, all nestled in a crunchy baguette. The horseradish has warmth without dominance, which, along with the truffle oil, you only fully appreciate as you breathe out.
His Le Brie Blanc represents France, to which is added caramelised onions, marinated chicory, crushed walnuts, truffle oil and fine ribbons of celery. It’s a skilfully balanced combination of sweet, sour, crunch and smoothness.
Both sandwiches were, of course, generous and fabulous, the overall consensus in the room leaning towards the beef, but that’s Brits for you. As for Raymond Blanc himself, a more charming and delightful individual you will never meet.
Merci, et chapeau!
The PAUL x Raymond Blanc sandwiches will be available from 13th September until 15th November as part of PAUL’s new autumn menu at all PAUL stores in London, Oxford and Reading.
