You don’t have to live in Soho to find yourself (and likely a slew of friends old and new) at 2am in Central London and in search of some proper food to wash away the many martinis and negronis that have (un)wisely been consumed. But where to go has been a question of debate for as long as I can remember, and one which has until recently not had any reassuring answers.
That all changed a few years ago when the clever people who run The Hippodrome Casino figured out that they needed a high end Chinese restaurant, with late night opening, for their Chinese members. Best of all they engaged Four Seasons restaurants to run it – a Chinese catering group with serious pedigree and standards. And best even of all they hired a living legend in the shape of William Sin, who for 26 years was at the wonderful and late lamented Y Ming, as front of house.
Surely nothing could go wrong?
Spoiler alert: nothing did. Rather those in the know found that at all unearthly hours they could eat perfect dim sum, delicate soups and the most fabulous roast Cantonese duck on the bone. With great drinks. At reasonable prices. I would go as far as to say if you have not been here then you should count yourself a rank amateur in Soho/Covent Garden drinking and partying all night circles. Not that I am recommending being in such circles. But still…
Now, for the first time since opening in 2022, the simply brilliant restaurant has unveiling fab new menu items and a refreshed interior. If you have not been, or have not been for a while, here’s your excuse.
At the heart of the launch is a menu that celebrates the rich traditions of Cantonese cooking, from handcrafted dim sum and comforting homestyle dishes to Four Season’ renowned signature roast meats and the restaurant’s seafood specialities. Designed for sharing, the new additions sit alongside the dishes that have made Chop Chop a destination for London’s Chinese food aficionados.
The all-new dim sum menu was, I thought, particularly great with highlights include spicy chicken siu mai and pork & shiitake mushroom dumplings, alongside an expanded selection of steamed buns filled with Chinese sausage, chicken or vegetables, with custard and red bean buns for those with a sweet tooth. Of these, the pork & shiitake mushroom dumplings are unmissable. There is also a vegetarian fake crispy duck with pancakes for the more tender among you.
Of the larger plates, the sautéed scallops with asparagus were a clear winner, with braised pork with vermicelli noodles a strong second. Homestyle prawn scrambled eggs reminded me of discovering the same dish in Hong Kong in the 1990s and who does not like deep-fried baked spareribs. Signature favourites remain firmly in play, including the restaurant’s legendary Hong Kong-style roast duck with rice (if you don not order this you are basically an utter fool); and lobster noodles dressed in ginger and spring onions.
For dessert, as Chop Chop has partnered with cult Filipino ice cream brand Mamasons Dirty Ice Cream on an exclusive scoop menu featuring Ube, Hojicha, Milo and White Rabbit ice creams. The collaboration also introduces the Chop Chop Espresso Melt, a playful East-meets-West take on an affogato with hot espresso poured over your choice of scoop.
The revamped interior is pretty cool, with neon koi fish accents and additional booth seating creating a vibrant backdrop for everything from leisurely dinners to spontaneous late-night feasts, whether you are dining on your own, as a group, on a date or with a mate. One thing to note by the way is that because it is part of the Casino, you need photo ID to get in. However, I would take the approach that if one of your group does not have ID then just ditch them. Why ruin your night because they don’t know how to parallel-park?
Best of all are the opening hours: daily from 6pm until 4am. I have lost count of the number of female friends who love going to Chop Chop as a group after surfing the bars of Soho as they can get excellent food and a few more drinks in a cool, friendly (and super safe…) space for not stupid money, and end the night on a high… You might want to join them.
To book visit: www.hippodromecasino.com/chopchop/
Surely I don’t have to give you an address for The Hippodrome?
