Hoshinoya Tokyo is quite possibly our favourite hotel in the world, for obvious reasons. The five-star luxury ryokan-style hotel leans into traditional Japanese hospitality. Everything has been designed with laser-focused precision, from the customer journey from check-in to check-out and the hotel’s impeccable interiors to curated activities and the star of the show: a rooftop onsen with thermal spring water pumped from deep below the earth’s surface. If we were only able to visit one hotel in our lifetime, Hoshinoya Tokyo would be at the very top of the list. Expect a restorative stay, calming décor and a one-off dining experience. We won’t say too much more…
What makes it so special?‘
Everything. The entrance. The design. The rooftop onsen. The restaurant. The service. The rooms. Hoshinoya Tokyo is as close to hotel perfection as you’ll find anywhere in the world. Enter feeling frantic and overwhelmed; leave feeling fresh and restored.
What’s the vibe like?
Calm, quiet and homely. It’s easy to forget you’re in one of the world’s biggest, most frenetic cities. Every inch of Hoshinoya Tokyo exudes peace and tranquillity, from the soft, muted colour palette to the hotel’s interior design. You don’t walk through her corridors, you float (usually in a yukata).
Who stays there?
Monied nationals. Monied internationals. Couples. Singles. Occasionally families. Mindful folk who want a ryokan experience with luxury levels dialled up about 200 notches.
The décor?
Dialled down, neutral tones, tatami mats, sunken furniture, hemp leaf lattices that sprinkle geometric shapes via syrup-coloured sunlight rays. Lashings of sweet-smelling blonde sandalwood covering floors and walls.
The rooms?
Hoshinoya Tokyo is a tower of ryokans. Each floor has six rooms and an Ochanoma Lounge (a kind of private tearoom with ice cream and snacks). There are only three room categories: Yuri and Sakura are entry-level rooms with either double or twin beds, while the larger Kiku has its own dining area and sleeps up to three people. Minimalist Japanese design governs each one, with soft, bare-feet-friendly tatami mats, sliding shoji screens and a low-slung bed dressed in a pillowy futon mattress, premium linen and dense duvets that swaddle guests like newborn babies. Sleeping here isn’t a problem; neither is curling up on your bed with a book. Slow mornings see light trickle through the lattices, creating shape-shifting patterns that dance around the room. Architecturally, everything is serene – previous stresses simply don’t exist anymore.
The food and drink?
You would expect a tall, urban hotel to have its flagship restaurant high up, overlooking Tokyo’s glittering cityscape, wouldn’t you? Well, you’d be wrong. Hoshinoya doesn’t do what other five-star hotels do – that’s its magic. The hotel’s restaurant – open only to hotel guests – is tucked away in the basement. It feels almost like a villain’s lair – all stony walls, sculpted plasterwork and black marble. Lost Flavours of Japanese Home Recipes is the name of the game in this surprisingly spacious underground dining room. Each dish pays tribute to one that’s long been forgotten or has lost its way a little, from tamago fuwafuwa (egg in dashi broth) to fermented carp with rice, or funazushi, chōji-fu. All plates are, as you’d expect in Japan, both aesthetically beautiful and deep in flavour. Sushi Otemon has also opened in a quiet corner of the restaurant, offering traditional Edomae sushi, all umami marinades and zesty vinegar.
What’s the service like?
Greetings at reception are made in hushed tones, setting a precedent for what’s to follow. From the second you remove your shoes and place them in a box until the minute you retrieve them to take on the city again, everyone treats you with the reverence of an elder monarch. Imagine whispered conversations, offers of sugary treats and kind gestures, like fresh nigiri packed and left outside your door for an early morning flight. Largely, guests are left to their own devices – this is a place of quiet contemplation, after all. That said, everyone is aware of your plans (sometimes before you are), and activities are available, should morning kenjutsu practice, sake tasting or incense making be on your to-do list. Alternatively, an evening of gentle traditional music can be enjoyed at 9pm.
The facilities?
Aside from the restaurant, tearooms, lounge area and shop in the lobby, there are few facilities. However, sometimes less is more, especially in this case. Head to the 17th floor to set eyes on Hoshinoya Tokyo’s crown jewel – a decadent rooftop onsen with hot spring water drawn from some 1,500 metres below the earth’s surface. It’s not only an engineering marvel but a place of design bliss: picture towering black marble leading to an open roof with a star-spangled sky. Rich in minerals, the onsen’s waters ease muscles, providing guests with the ultimate pre-bedtime or post-flight soak (always finish with a frosty glass of milk from the fridge). Massages and treatments are also available for a little extra.