In happier times, Beirut has been referred to as the Paris of the middle east. Drawing inspiration from its former French overlords, it is sophisticated, worldly, chic. Their wine industry has been around for 7000 years (those cunning Phoenicians), they have ski resorts and café culture, as well as a musical tradition that has long been co-opted by the Arabic nations as their own. A melting pot of languages, religions and a love of the good life, it retains its mystique and glamour. And of course, Lebanese food is of legend.
Founder Tarek Farah, who also owns its more traditional sister restaurant Aline a few doors down, set out to create something a bit more modern, fusing French cooking styles with a largely Lebanese menu.
Set on the corner of Maddox and Pollen Street, it’s a bright corner plot set out a bit like a high-end tapas bar with open kitchen (including rotisserie), at-bar dining, and an array of seating either side. The layout is tight, but it has a very nice vibe with maroon walls and figured marble tables. Most of the customers on our visit were women meeting for a catch-up, which is always a good sign. The music is fun too, though it could afford to lean more towards Paris or Beirut, and the glazing on two sides does mean that it’s quite noisy. Front of house uniforms are pretty cool comprising ecru chore-coat with matching slacks, and the team are very welcoming.
We began with roasted pumpkin hummus, rose harissa, pine nuts. The pumpkin is mostly there for texture and colour, which combines with the warmth and crunch to make this a star dish, albeit a seasonal option. Meanwhile, halloumi kataifi, the cheese rolled in nest-like pastry and served with hot honey have a great texture, though ultimately are a little bland. Baklava with squeaky cheese, if you will.
As a veggie-main we tried aubergine with yoghurt fatteh, pomegranate, crunchy toast of markouk bread and pine nuts, which works well though it stood out for its level of salt.
We were obliged to share a half rotisserie chicken (their signature dish) with all the sauces, which was cooked well. The sauces for dunking are fun, the Café de Paris butter being my favourite.
In the hope of a clean vegetable side dish be ordered beetroot, coconut labneh, orange and walnuts but its labneh sauce denied it of its fresh acidity.
Keeping true to the terroir, a bottle of 2022 Musar Jeune, from the legendary Bekaar Valley, was fruity, spicy and made a great accompaniment to the meal.
Their chocolate mousse includes a secret weapon – black cherries. Served with whipped cream, it’s dark and delicious. Meanwhile, the Tarte Tatin was a disappointment. The absence of baked-in caramelisation was over-compensated by the use of a caramel sauce. Je dis non!
After dinner it seemed churlish not to explore their basement cocktail bar called Encore. Warm, cosy and just a little naughty, with a couple of booths set into the coal holes, it’s a delightful environment. The list of cocktails is unique to them, though they can always conjure up the staples upon request. I tried their Sumac Negroni, a tequila twist on the original, this time with very little Campari and a slug of Dubonnet. It was very good, though the Mezcal Spritz, with yuzu, lime and coconut water, was smoky and intriguing. Intimate and personable, it’s a great place for a catch-up or date night.
With Lebanese cuisine a confident staple in London, the bar is set high. Toum does pretty well, keenly priced and the space and design made for a fun experience, while Encore is a real find for a cheeky cocktail. The acid test, yes, I will return!
Toum Rotisserie, 18a Maddox Street, London W1S 1PL, UK – [email protected] – Toum