Whitstable has the look and feel of estuary to its bones. To misquote Larkin, it is a place where sky and Kent and water meet. But beyond the mudflats and tidal reaches there are riches in the oysterbeds that are coming to life once more, and you feel this rebirth in the town, or at least in the streets nearest the shoreline.
Pretty it is not, but it is beautiful in its own way, and like Herne Bay down the road and Margate a little further along is becoming home to a new generation of artists and writers, chefs and swimmers and you can feel their energy around you, rebirthing the town.
Food is a key part of this, with glorious, delicious oysters, not necessarily natives, but often imported types that do not breed. And it’s hard to think of a more delicious yet environmentally friendly food than an oyster. The group that owns the Hotel Continental is The Whitstable Oyster Company Ltd, and they have it all – an oyster shack, a really terrific lobster shack – although don’t overread the word shack there – it’s a proper place, as well as a brewery producing excellent (and punchy) local ales and stouts.
And a hotel, the Continental. And some flats. And some beach huts in which you are allowed to overnight. So when we headed down to Whitstable for a wedding we followed the bride’s recommendation and booked into the Hotel Continental.
It has the look of a proper seaside hotel. A proud white frontage overlooking the beach with covered seating and big window panes the better for letting the inside bathe in the wide wide vista of sea and clouds. And it’s not bad at all inside – a very inviting bar with big sofas, a baby grand piano a good selection of local and other beers and tempting nibbles, alongside a restaurant with approachable and fun fare. I could lose an afternoon in here no problem at all. They host a lot of musicians and others in the evening. I’m guessing those are pretty fun evenings.
The welcome was warm and immediate, and the lovely receptionist even juggled around the staff’s parked cars to find space for ours (they also having parking permits for the street available in case they have run out of space). It’s that rare of welcomes – one that actually gives a monkeys, and even rarer still will help.
Up New England style clapperboard staircases and down corridors with sofas in every corner we found our two bedroom family suite at the back. It had everything you want at the seaside – crisp white linens, spotlessly clean, large windows with shutters instead of curtains, comfortable beds, a big bath and a kettle for a cup of tea coming out of the rain.
It’s not five star art deco and thank god for that. It’s much more comfortable and friendly. And what a location – a short stroll along the seafront, past the swimming pool and the sea scouts gets you to their Lobster Shack where the fish and chips are excellent (and I don’t say that about southern fish and chips lightly) and half a dozen oysters costs £12.50 – try getting that in London. Back to the hotel for a bracing beer on the terrace and then drift off in a deep and peaceful sleep ahead of a breakfast buffet that could fuel a cross channel swimmer.
Great rooms, great staff, great breakfast. And the price of a two bedroom family suite in September? We paid £150 for a night bed and breakfast. That is quite simply a bargain. I want to go back and explore more of Whitstable. You should too. The only change is I think I might pay a little bit more and got one of the rooms at the front, with the big windows looking out at infinite water.
A great little hotel with small prices and very big views.
And oysters.
The Hotel Continental, 29 Beach Walk, Whitstable CT5 2BP – 01227 280280
The Lobster Shack – open every day from 11am until 9pm – 01227 280280