Eating on Park Lane can be a dispiriting experience for those of us lacking the financial heft to make it our natural habitat. You approach through Mayfair, past the hedge fund offices and the shops that only hedge fund types can afford to shop in. You dodge the Lamborghinis and Ferraris queuing at the traffic lights. Then, taking one last deep breath of the fumes arising from the eight-lane superhighway that Park Lane in reality is and enter a hotel to the audible sound of the tone being lowered by your mere presence.
All of which made the friendly welcome we received at Najma Lebanon all the more pleasing. A recently opened pop-up in the Intercontinental London Park Lane, this offers cuisine inspired by Georges Rahme, the renowned Lebanese chef based in IHG’s hotels in Dubai. The restaurant has its own entrance to the street so you don’t have the run the gauntlet of the monied denizens of the hotel lobby, which takes you into a relaxed and roomy dining room, decorated with a nod to its Middle Eastern theme without lapsing into pastiche.
To begin, we were offered an amuse bouche of flatbread with spiced olive and pomegranate, which gave a preview of the explosion of flavours to come. We then started with some cold mezze. The Hummus Beruity was satisfyingly thick and creamy, seasoned with cumin and parsley with a paprika twist but then freshened by a splash of lemon. Our choice of salad, the Chmander Ma’a Haloumi was a dish of tender chicken supreme accompanied by a halloumi that actually tasted of cheese rather than the rubbery version one so often encounters and a delightfully earthy heritage beetroot.
We then moved to the hot Sokhon. The Lamb Merguez was a dense and moist sausage, cooked in a tangy tomato and chilli sauce which it wore lightly, staying flavoursome rather than outright hot. To go with this, we had the Batata Harra, crispy fried potatoes given extra tang by paprika and coriander and a textual contrast with some pomegranate.
For the main course we were unable to resist the mixed grill. A feast of lamb chops, beef kofta and chicken wings, with wild rice and an accompanying chilli and garlic aioli, this was a meat lovers delight. Stand out though was the sea bass. You get the whole fish, pan-fried and beautifully presented. As with the grill, this was cooked to perfection, the fish succulent and complimented by and accompanied by wilted spinach and an elegantly spicy tomato dallous.
We somehow found room for dessert. The Traditional Osmalieh had a deliciously thick cream sandwiched between a bird’s nest of rose-infused roasted vermicelli, while a slightly less opulent option by the rose and vanilla ice creams, which were light in texture but rich in flavour.
To accompany all this, it seemed appropriate to drink Lebanese wine, of which the wine list contained a number. We went for the youthful Cinsault/Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon blend from the renowned Chateau Musar, a vibrant unoaked red that went particularly well with the meats.
One final word about the portions. They are generous to say the least. The dishes described were ideal for sharing and more than sufficient for two – never before have I accepted the offer of a takeaway box but so ashamed was I of my efforts to get through everything presented to us it seemed only polite to our attentive and friendly waiting staff to take some with us to enjoy later. This potentially makes it great value, particularly for the location, as what is described here could have easily fed 4 if not more and the plates are very much made for sharing.
Described as a pop-up for the summer, Najma Lebanon’s time in London may soon be done but hopefully, it will return to make a permanent great addition to the London restaurant scene for those wanting to try authentic Middle Eastern cuisine in an upmarket setting.
Related: Bologna-based restaurant chain to bring its famous crescentina to London’s Brick Lane
