Restaurant Review – The Golden Arrow at Hotel Pullman St. Pancras

By Jonathan Hatchman, Food Editor, @TLE_Food

With more than 4000 shades of achromatic grey allegedly available, the décor of the King’s Cross branch of Pullmans’ Golden Arrow Restaurant and Bar manages to showcase at least 30 of those variations, set towards the back of the hotel lobby, peering out onto the rigmarole of the constantly busy Euston Road. “Sleek” is the first word that springs to mind. It’s the sort of place that once the sun has set and the lights have dimmed, you’d expect to find Sade riling through a set of late 21st century soul songs, illuminated by the odd splash of vibrant yellow that contrasts with the trendy grey décor.

To start, I opt for the Gressingham Duck Liver and Foie Gras parfait, the result is delicious, albeit served atop a slate (another shade of grey) that makes the most irritating of sounds reminiscent of finger nails and chalk boards when the cutlery comes into contact. My friend, on the other hand, chooses the tasting platter of Cured Hams for one (£18). The portion size is absolutely colossal, enough to feed the pair of us, featuring fine slices of French, Spanish and Italian Meat that’s accompanied by a huge helping of Bread, Pickles and Olives.

Throughout the month of June, a Brazilian inspired Churrasco menu was promoted through the restaurant, and following the success; it’s carrying on into July. Featuring a choice of four meats from the Josper Grill sourced from farms hand picked by chef Michael Penn, who delivers the meal to our table with great pride. Taking the opportunity to sample each of the offerings, the 35-day dry aged Ribeye (£26.50) and Sirloin chunks (£23) are served perfectly pink, as is the Char grilled Colne Valley Suffolk Black Face Lamb (£22.50) which melts in ones mouth like a slab of rich, meaty Butter – delicious albeit slightly under-seasoned. The spicy Merguez Sausage (£18.50) does exactly as promised, too piquant for my companion, but perfect for myself, the heat is wonderfully combatted by the homemade Slaw that’s served alongside the Meat, as well as a helping of Chimichurri Sauce and Fries.

By the time we plow through our Meat feasts, there’s very little room for Dessert. Brigitta’s Homemade Mille-Feuilles with Strawberry Jelly, Chocolate and Mint sounds appealing, as does the Salted Caramel Chocolate Tart with Vanilla Custard Ice Cream (all desserts priced at £8.50). However, it’s the Ice Cream selection that grabs our attention. The Quince Sorbet and Chunky Strawberry Ice Cream are delicious and presented marvellously, albeit a little expensive given that we could’ve feasted on the aforementioned delights for the same price.

The Modern European fare on offer is well executed, if not a little pricey at times, but it’s the Brazilian Churrasco menu that steals the show during our recent visit.

The Golden Arrow can be found at Hotel Pullman London St. Pancras, 100 – 110 Euston Road, London NW1 2AJ.

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